It is cooking season, a traditional and
comforting
dish
that warms the body and even the spirit. The famous trio (with the permission of Carmen Mola's) Quintero, León and Quiroga already says it in their song: "Cocidito Madrileño ringing in the attic, which smells of mint and verbena in Las Vistillas ... Because you are pure glory, Madrilenian cocidito "... And of uncertain origin it would be necessary to add. That if it starts from the
Sephardic adafine
(with chickpeas and lamb), or from the
rotten pot
(with beans instead of chickpeas), the truth is that the current preparation has little to do with the
first stews
that we have news about.
In Madrid, where it is a
gastronomic emblem
, it is difficult to find a restaurant that does not serve it, be it one day, several or all. In any case, the preparation of the -family recipe; clinging to the flag of
tradition,
haute cuisine or
reinterpreted for the 20th century
as a way for this "battered dish to evolve without losing essence and substance", according to Santiago Pedraza, from Taberna Pedraza - it has the same starting point. That is,
good national products
(Madrid chickpeas from Daganzo or Fuentesaúco; Iberian and Galician meats, vegetables and fresh vegetables ...), all
cooked over low heat
and with time, a long time.
And, if you have it, why not stop by these dozen restaurants, where the stew is and tastes like pure glory.
Has all winter.
Commercial Coffee Proposal.
Commercial Coffee
"The best ingredients and time, a long time
simmering
".
Those are the keys to the stew offered by this centenary space through which several generations of locals and foreigners have passed and whose traditional and traditional proposal has been updated by
chef Pepe Roch
.
It takes up to 12 hours to prepare this stew, with Iberian ham bone and first-class meats, fresh vegetables, chickpeas from Fuentesaúco, sausages from León and piparras from Navarra.
Available
Thursdays
by reservation.
Price: 19 euros.
Address:
Glorieta de Bilbao, 7. Tel .: 91 088 25 25.
The four twists of the stew of La Cocina de Frente.MIKEL PONCE
The Front Kitchen
The dining room was born in 2019 with the idea of reinterpreting the multiple national stews. And in their own
way they
version the Madrid recipe here. Prepared with care and
"a little daring"
-the menu says-, the dish has a single protagonist: the product. With the advice of
Juanjo López Bedmar
(La Tasquita de Enfrente) and Carlos García at the controls of the stoves, the proposal begins with a
croquette of old clothes
and continues with four turns: pickles and soup; vegetables and chickpeas; meats transformed into old clothes and with a fried egg on top and, finally,
marrow with a celery tartare
. It is dispatched every noon, under reservation 48 hours in advance. Price: 32 euros.
Address:
Ibiza, 40. Tel .: 91 060 72 20.
The Madrid stew from Cruz Blanca de Vallecas.
White Cross of Vallecas
Antonio Cosmen
, owner and cook of this Vallecano dining room, is Asturian and yet has such a good hand for the Madrilenian recipe - he came to Los Madriles at the age of 14 to work at the La Giralda restaurant - which has been the
star of the house
since the beginning.
Its stew begins with a homemade croquette
in the grandmother's style
with natural tomato and sauce, continues with the soup and, finally, the chickpeas, pure butter and accompanied by its mandatory meats, chorizo, blood sausage, chicken, cabbage and, of course , natural tomato prepared with cumin.
Available every day with reservation.
Price: 25 euros.
Address:
Carlos Martín Álvarez, 58. Tel .: 91 477 34 38.
The overturns of Charolés.
Patent leather
Just citing the changes that the stew of this mountain dining room has is impressive: 11. "It is not about binge eating, but about
trying a little of everything
. The formula works, for something we have been offering it for 44 years", says the owner, Manuel Míguez. It starts with a Galician potato with chorizo while the noodles are cooking. And we go with the turns in question:
the soup (defatted)
; Fuentesaúco chickpeas with cachelos, freshly picked carrot and tomato confit with cumin; turnip greens and cabbage; the bacon (from Verín); the bones (of ham and
cane with their marrow
); meats (chorizo, blood sausage, ribs, Santamaría chicken ...);
Madrid
ball
(a bread batter, with egg, garlic and fine herbs); the
berujas
that now put as semipostre ... So up to 11 passes.
Available Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays not holidays, it is essential to reserve.
Price: 39 euros.
Address:
Floridablanca, 24 (San Lorenzo de El Escorial).
Tel .: 91 890 59 75.
One of the dishes on Lhardy's 'Cocido Menu'.
Lhardy
The stew continues to be an emblem of this century-old house that, after being acquired by the
Pescaderías Coruñesas Group
, has been renovated. The space has been refurbished and new dishes arrive at the proposal while other historical ones are maintained, such as the aforementioned stew that stars -together with the dessert soufflé- in the
Cooked Menu
. It is presented in two turns: the soup and then the rest of the ingredients, all first-rate products. Take note: chickpeas from Castilla-La Mancha,
Carabaña vegetables
(cabbage, potato and carrot), chorizo from León, onion black pudding from Baeza, truffled pork sausage from Euskal Txerri,
Galician beef
black pudding
, Galician beef marrow, Iberian rib from Sierra de Villuercas ... Available every day with a reservation for lunch and dinner ("many people ask for it at night", they explain from the dining room).
Price: 60 euros.
Address:
Carrera de San Jerónimo, 8. Tel .: 91 521 33 85.
Cooked with whole chicken included, in Malacatín.
Malacatín
If there is something in the stew of this restaurant in the La Latina neighborhood, founded in 1875 as a wine shop, it is tradition and an old family recipe.
Prepared slowly and over a low heat, it
is served
in
generous portions
and, although it can be served to the taste of the diner, it is usually presented in
three turns.
Thus, you can start with the soup, with noodles and accompanied by piparras;
continue with the chickpeas and cabbage and finish with the meats, including
a whole chicken!
(in case you are hungry), a classic of the proposal.
And, in addition, the mandatory tomato sauce with cumin.
It is dispatched every day with reservation.
Price: 22 euros.
Address:
Ruda, 5. Tel .: 91 365 52 42.
Cooked Half Portion.
Half rations
This space, the most contemporary version of
Cuenllas
-ultramarinos and bistro opened in 1939-, is faithful to the philosophy of the mother company: to offer the best product.
And with great raw material,
Antonio del Álamo
makes a stew that is not purely from Madrid, since it incorporates some of the details of the stew
that his mother made for him
(she is from Fuente Palmera, a town in Seville) when he was little.
It is served in three turns: the soup;
chickpeas with vegetables and meats and marrow,
presented on the bone
with breadcrumbs with shallot and toasted parsley.
Available on Thursdays, reservations are recommended.
Price: 32 euros.
Address:
Beneficencia, 15. Tel .: 91 447 51 11. To book this restaurant click here.
Chickpea and vegetable overturn in Picones de María.
Picones de María
The stew that
Jesús Peinado and María Meño
serve in their eating house was the sensation of last year from the hand of a chef who is no longer there. However, it remains one of the
most desirable in the capital
. The reason? The
famous one
started from the one that María has always done (she has been working in the kitchen since she was 17 years old). In essence there are three overturns, but "we extend them to five to
better control temperatures,
" explains Jesús. It starts with the soup and the pickles, and follows in order of appearance the chickpeas from Daganzo with the
encominada
, the vegetables from Madrid (pumpkin, carrot and potato) and the vegetables (with daikon turnip); then the cold meats (Iberian bacon; blood sausage, chorizo); after,
collagen
(pig's trotters, ear, snout) and in the last turn, country chicken ham, ribs and Iberian pork knuckle, blood sausage ...).
Available Thursday by reservation.
Price: 24.50 euros.
Address:
Simancas, 12.
Tel .: 91 459 99 09. To make a reservation at this restaurant, click here.
Carmen Carro preparing her famous stew, in Taberna Pedraza.
Pedraza Tavern
In this food house led by
Santiago Pedraza and Carmen Carro
, the stew is - along with the croquettes and the potato omelette -
icon
of their proposal. If something characterizes the stew that Carmen has been preparing for eight years, it is a "dietary balance without giving up succulence or the usual flavors," explains the cook. Or, what is the same, a recipe made with care,
elegant and easy to digest
, but with substance, and if not, take a look at the raw material that gives it
substance
: Galician cow blood sausage; lean chicken thigh; chorizo and black pudding from Beasain; Streaky bacon and Iberian ham knuckle ... Available every day with reservation, served -after the stew croquette- in
three turns
: soup, chickpeas and vegetables and meats.
To accompany, tomato sauce with cumin, piparras and chives.
Price: 31 euros.
Address
: Recoletos, 4. Tel .: 91 342 82 40.
Cooked game, in Treze.
Thirteen
The stew that they prepare in this dining room in the Salamanca district is not one of the most common, nor the easiest to prepare, unless the person who executes it is an expert in
hunting cuisine
.
And that is precisely the case of Saúl Sanz.
The chef has just started the season of Madrid stew in a
game version
, fat-free and light.
With chickpeas as the main characters, substitute the chicken and ham for the wild boar shank, the deer with its chorizo and blood sausage, the partridge and the pheasant.
Available
the last Friday of the month
until March.
Price: 25 euros.
Address
: General Pardiñas, 34. Tel .: 91 541 07 17.
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