To the southeast of Burgos, on the border with the provinces of La Rioja and Soria, the
Sierra de la Demanda-Pinares
is a protected natural area belonging to the Iberian Mountain Range.
The region is perfect to get away for a weekend (less than 200 km from Madrid) and discover, without crowds or rush, its countless treasures.
From following in the footsteps of the dinosaurs and the first settlers of Europe to discovering charming towns, Romanesque monasteries and hermitages or rivers that are born in the highest peaks of the province, the possibilities to enjoy this beautiful environment in a relaxed way are immense.
We propose some plans to get
lost
and disconnect between mountains, pine forests and meadows or next to rivers:
In the footsteps of the dinosaurs and humanity
The presence of dinosaurs in the province millions of years ago can be verified by the footprints found in several ichnite deposits, distributed among the towns of Mambrillas de Lara (deposits of Las Sereas and de la Pedraja), Regumiel de la Sierra and Salas de the children. In the latter, there is also the Dinosaur Museum (entry: 2.50 euros), which houses some skeletal remains of these giants and information to interpret the flora and fauna of the Mesozoic era.
About 70 km away are the
Atapuerca
sites
, where remains of five different hominid species have been found, including the first settlers of the continent.
In addition to being an exceptional place for the study of evolution, visitors can delve into the importance of the site at the Atapuerca Experimental Archeology Center (CAREX), the Ibeas de Juarros Site Access Center (CAYAC) or the Museum of Human Evolution (entrance: 6 euros).
High medieval necropolis
The community of Revenga is located in a bucolic place surrounded by mountains and pine forests, land whose jurisdiction is shared by the neighboring municipalities of Canicosa, Quintanar and Regumiel de la Sierra.
In its nearly five square kilometers there are several places worth visiting:
the Casa de la Madera
, a building dedicated to the enhancement of the management and exploitation of the pine forest, the
hermitage of Nuestra Señora de Revenga
and a
late medieval necropolis
with about 140 tombs carved into the rock that show the funeral practices of the ancient inhabitants of these lands.
Follow the trail of an old mining train
Vía Verde, Sierra de la Demanda.
From Arlanzón to Monterrubio de la Demanda,
the Sierra de la Demanda Greenway
climbs steadily along the banks of the Arlanzón River, following the trail of an old mining railway that transported iron extracted from the mountains to Burgos.
When the mines were closed, more than a century ago, the railroad also disappeared.
Today, it is a cycling and hiking route of more than 50 kilometers that passes through protected areas between oaks, beeches, pines, meadows and following the course of the river, with privileged views of the Sierra de la Demanda.
Between monasteries and medieval hermitages
Santo Domingo de Silos.
Santo Domingo de Silos
is famous for hosting a majestic monastery, whose construction dates back to the 7th century. Currently, the abbey is inhabited by several Benedictine monks who, several times a day, sing their songs. Visiting this monument is a must. Its Romanesque cloister, with its capitals from the 11th and 12th centuries with different religious scenes and the cypress to which Gerardo Diego dedicated one of his poems located in the center, deserve in themselves to approach the town.
The feeling of peace and tranquility caused by visiting these temples (even more so if the background sound is formed by the chants of the monks) is incredible. A few kilometers from Silos, there is another one that is worth visiting. It is the monastery of
San Pedro de Arlanza
, another of the Romanesque monuments of the Middle Ages. Its ruins are on top of a cliff on the banks of the Arlanza River. In the middle of the Camino de Santiago, the also medieval
monastery of San Juan de Ortega
(12th and 13th centuries) stands out for its Gothic canopy, a Romanesque tomb and the capital of the Annunciation that, twice a year, is illuminated punctually with sunlight creating "the miracle of light". For its part,
the hermitage of Quintanilla de las Viñas
, built on a Roman temple, it was built in the 7th century, and is one of the great examples of Spanish-Visigothic art that have survived.
Monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza.
Covarrubias, the most beautiful town in Burgos
This people of legend (it is said that Princess Cristina of Norway arrived in these lands when she married Felipe, brother Alfonso X the Wise, who, to end her sadness, promised to dedicate a hermitage to Saint Olav) is one of the most beautiful towns in Spain.
It is surprising how well its houses of traditional architecture are maintained with stone basements, half-timbered frames and flower-filled balconies.
Its narrow and cobbled streets lead to places of interest such as the Arch of the Archives, the tower of Fernán González, the tower of Doña Urraca or the collegiate church of San Cosme and San Damián, where the remains of the aforementioned Infanta of Norway rest.
Covarrubias.
Hiking through glacial lagoons and 2,000 meter peaks
At the summits of the Sierra de la Demanda there are many streams that descend between mountains, creating ravines and valleys, until they join the main courses.
Along the way, hundreds of spectacular waterfalls and pools, such as
the Altuzarra waterfalls
(three waterfalls that follow one another in a few meters, of 12, 28 and 34 meters, respectively, which are accessed by a signposted path that It starts at the Zarcia refuge, in the vicinity of Santa Cruz del Valle Urbión), or
the Lagunas de Neila
(a set of glacial lakes at an altitude of about 2,000 m in one of the most spectacular mountainous landscapes of Burgos).
Neila lagoons.
For lovers of the high mountains there are also options.
With 2,131 meters of altitude,
the San Millán peak
is the roof of the province of Burgos, and to access its top there are several signposted paths.
The best known routes start at the aforementioned Altuzarra waterfalls, in Pineda de la Sierra and in Barbadillo de Herreros.
They are suitable only for people in shape and with some experience, due to the great unevenness.
The final reward: a breathtaking view of the mountains, their forests and valleys.
Where to sleep
Parador de Lerma
(Plaza Mayor, 1, Lerma, Burgos; 947 17 71 10). About 30 km from the Sierra, in the small monumental city of Lerma, is located this 17th century palace converted into a hotel. In its day used by King Felipe III, it has a large central courtyard, spacious rooms decorated in a classic style with antique furniture and vaulted ceilings. Its restaurant serves a wide variety of traditional regional dishes with modern touches. Price: from 135 euros. You can book here.
Hotel Rey Chindasvinto
(Torreón de Doña Urraca, Plaza del Rey Chindasvinto, 5, Covarrubias, Burgos; 947 40 65 60).
Next to the Arlanza River, this traditional rustic hotel in the medieval town of Covarrubias has all the comforts, as well as a cafeteria with a terrace and a restaurant that serves traditional Castilian dishes.
Price: from 50 euros.
You can book here.
Hotel Santo Domingo de Silos
(Santo Domingo, 12, Santo Domingo de Silos, Burgos; 947 39 00 53).
Located opposite the Benedictine monastery, this comfortable and functional hotel features the Mudejar restaurant, which specializes in grilled meats such as suckling pig, lamb and kid.
Price: from 45 euros.
You can book here.
Neila lagoons.
* By reserving these accommodations through our website, readers will not get discounts or additional benefits, but they will help Metrópoli to obtain a commission for each reservation as an affiliate of the Booking.com program.
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