We cannot avoid it: we are a country that loses
red meat
(whether fresh, ripened or overripe).
Okay, not as much as the
Uruguayans, who have until a National Day,
May 29.
But the good weather is arriving and we are awakened by the
desire for steak
.
If we add to this that
grilled cuisine
is increasingly fashionable in the hospitality industry, we already have the
round carnivorous proposal
.
Here is a selection -
in alphabetical order
- of Madrid restaurants (classic and also in a modern key) that handle fire and meat with art.
A Brasa. © A BRASA
To Brasa
Its name already gives clues to the
leitmotif of this modern steakhouse
- the
brother
of Carbón Negro and Umo from Madrid - and its stars. That is, its
three level grills
- created for
braising and grilling
and supplied with charcoal - and the product, not just carnivore. In its meat proposal, we find dishes such as bone-in matured beef entrecote; the
40-day-old beef chop
(
the house
hit
); the mini-
burgers with ripened picaña
, served on brioche bread; the beef sirloin sautéed in the pan with confit garlic and rosemary that has just entered the summer menu or its classic
steak tartare
, with toasted bread (prices: 12.50 to 29.90 euros per person).
Addresses:
Camino de la Zarzuela, 23 (Madrid).
Tel .: 91 088 39 58. / Estafeta, 2 (Alcobendas).
Tel .: 91 088 39 58.
A'Kangas by Urrechu
A'Kangas by Urrechu
This 21st century steakhouse from
Iñigo Urrechu
-flamming owner of Zalacain- is the most carnivorous proposal of the Gipuzkoan chef; if not, take a look at the display case where the pieces are displayed or at the dining room menu. Up to 11 dishes go through a
(sustainable) grill fed with oak wood
from annual pruning. Their meats -from Valles del Esla and Grupo Norteños, among other suppliers- present
different maturations
, and have as kings of the house the
steaks
: Asturian veal, Galician and Asturian cow of high maturity (the most demanded) and ox (45, 58 and 85 euros per kilo, respectively). It also offers individual cuts such as picaña, premium entrecote, beef or beef tenderloin ...
Address:
Plaza de la Moraleja, 4 (Alcobendas).
Telf .: 91 555 56 00. Closed on Sunday nights.
Askuabarra.
Askuabarra
Nacho and Jorge Gadea
are, since 2014, the soul of this dining room that follows in the footsteps of the
Valencian Askua
founded by their father in 1994. Stews and
grill
star in an offer that is based on the raw material
with name and surname
: Rafa López anchovies , hake cocochas by Alberto Ferreres, Galician old cow chops by
Luismi Garayar
, an institution in the world of premium meats. "
We do not work on high
maturities, we advocate for meats aged 30 or 40 days, no longer," says Jorge. Thus, they serve low and high loin chops of beef and
Luismi Prémium high loin.
(prices: from 26 euros) and also a famous steak tartare.
Also, fish and dishes to share.
Address:
Arlabán, 7. Telf .: 91 593 75 07. Closed on Sunday nights.
Candeli.
Candeli
Fire and embers are the hallmarks of the house that the
Rivera brothers
have in Chamberí.
Fish and shellfish from national markets;
vegetables from Navarra and local producers and, of course, meats of different breeds that
refine and mature
until they are ready to go to the charcoal grill.
For example, grilled sirloin center, beef tenderloin ... Or a
T-bone of old Holstein cow
, a special cut that combines
tenderloin and sirloin in the same piece
and will be offered until June 13.
The meat, selected and matured by
Discarlux
, is short-aged (15 days) and is served in one-kilo pieces (60 euros).
Direction:
Ponzano, 47. Telf .: 91 737 70 86. Closed on Sunday nights.
Casa Juián de Tolosa, in Bulbiza.MIKEL PONCE.
Julián de Tolosa House
If the
Gorrotxategi
know one thing, it
is to domesticate fire, grills and steaks. This is demonstrated in the mythical steakhouse that Matías Gorrotxategi founded in Tolosa in the 1950s -commanded today by his son Xabi- and in the two
Madrid headquarters
run by his other two offspring: Mikel in Cava Baja, 18, and
Iñaki in Bulbiza
. This modern
grill
houses a
visible grill
, identical to that of the mother house, where Iñaki, a
purebred grill man
, opts for short maturations (between 15 and 30 days) and a
point of roast
based on the three-color technique (brown dark on the outside, pink on the edge and red in the center). His specialty is the
beef chop
(simmental, holstein or Galician blonde), accompanied by piquillo peppers (price, depending on the market).
Address:
Ibiza, 39. Telf .: 91 060 72 10. Closed on Sunday nights.
D'Madrid.
D'Madrid
Not all carnivorous paradises are in the capital, they can also be found in an
industrial estate
. For example, in Meco, a town where the
Casado brothers
opened a spacious premises in 2007, where they grill
fish, vegetables and meats of all kinds
on the grill - with oak charcoal
. "From fresh to
Galician blonde cow chops
(eight years old, from
Cárnicas Lyo
) with 40 or 50 days of maturation", explains Michel. Most essential in the dining room: filleted grilled ribeye; sirloin medallion or
national wagyu cutlet
(prices: from 25 to 99 euros per kilo). Now, they also offer
Galician beef tenderloin
, a product that they want to keep fixed in the menu of this house, whose
hits
are the Galician chop and the
roasts in a wood oven
.
Address
: La Venta, 2 (Meco).
Telephone: 91 830 73 19. Closed: evenings and Sundays.
Pelota player.
Pelota player
Francisco López and Enrique Fernández
opened this Basque-Navarre cuisine restaurant 30 years ago. Key in any carnivorous route for the
quality of its meats
and for the
arts
that Paco shows, who, with more than 40 years of trade, dominates the grill -of holm oak charcoal- like few others.
Pieces of beef pass through
the
fire
(Galician blondes, Portuguese cachenas and Central European fleckvieh or simmental) with 30 or 40 days in a chamber that - for three decades - has been supplied by the
Garbuga company
. And
ox with high maturities
, when they find it, a task that Ingenierías Cárnicas is in charge of. In addition to the old cow chop -star of the house- (55 euros / kilo) and
the ox
(approx. 95 euros / kilo), there is entrecote, sirloin ...
Address:
Recoletos, 3. Tel .: 91 578 24 97. Closed on Sunday nights.
Piantao.
Piantao
In this space, Javier Brichetto -chef tanned in "a thousand kitchens" - worships
Argentine asados in a modern key
. "In my country we always have an excuse to light the grill. There, the barbecue
is like football
, we all have an opinion, we
all know
, we are all great grill", he explains between smiles. On the grill that
he himself has designed,
meat from the
humid Pampas
and, recently, also Spanish. The former come from
young Aberdeen Angus steers
and their crosses, with 40 days of maturation. And the cuts?
Beef eye
(central part of the high loin);
chorizo steak
(low back);
entrails;
Vacuum del Fino y Tira de Asado, the most popular and autochthonous Argentine (prices: from 22 to 29 euros).
Now, in addition, it works with
meats from Galician and Asturian cows,
9 years old and
60 or 90 days old
(80 euros / kilo and 90 euros / kilo, respectively).
Address:
Plaza de la Chopera, 69. Telf .: 91 467 54 02.
The cattle
The cattle
We are in an entire
institution dedicated to meat
, especially old Galician beef, "although there are also Asturian and northern Portugal", explains
Paloma Rodríguez
. Since 1995, she and her husband,
Luis González
, have been in charge of the dining room that their parents founded in 1964. Do not look for young meats, because "the most normal ones are
between 60 and 80 days old,"
says the owner. And it is that they handle high aging, even
"before it became fashionable," he
says. Luis takes care of the loins -which he keeps in cameras- and moves them so that "
the fat infiltrates
and provides a spectacular flavor. Some are up to 26 months old," says Paloma. What do you eat here?
Galician beef cutlet
(43 euros / kilo);
sirloin
burger
(18-26 euros);
Galician beef
chop of
high maturity (price, according to market) or its renowned steak tartar (18-27 euros).
Address:
Orfila, 3. Telf .: 91 308 03 82. Closed Saturday nights and Sundays.
Elia's Tavern
More than a restaurant, what
Aurelian Catalin
has in Pozuelo is a
red meat mecca
. In addition, due to his handling of the embers, he seems to come from a
national
barbecue line
, but
Cata is Romanian
and learned the trade with Jeremías de Lózar, in El Torreón de Tordesillas (Valladolid). The menu includes proposals of all kinds, with varied races and origins; renowned providers (
Norteños, Lyo, Discarlux ...
);
fresh, overripe and overripe meats
, "in some cases, up to 500 days," Catalin explains. There is everything or almost:
Japanese wagyu
with DO; high and low loin of
American black angus
; entrecote, sirloin and
grilled rib
of simmental, Danish red or Friesian, between 45 and 90 days of maturation;
Grilled steak from a
Galician beef over five years old
and aged for more than 150 days ... "Average price? 60 euros, although a Guadarrama beef steak is not the same as an beef steak," he concludes.
Address:
Via de las dos Castillas (Pozuelo de Alarcón).
Tel .: 91 162 72 49.
Elia's Tavern.
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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