Pickling is an ancestral food preservation technique consisting of marinating any product, both animal and vegetable, in vinegar to preserve it from oxidation and putrefaction. After the appearance of the refrigerators, it was no longer necessary to become one more technique in the kitchen, in search of enhancement of flavors.
It is generally eaten cold
(although we have
eaten them
warm and even hot), so it is a dish that adapts perfectly to the imminent months of heat. In Madrid there are half a dozen restaurants that embroider it (although one of them,
Taberna Verdejo
, is temporarily closed while the transfer of its founding premises on Calle de Espartinas to a new address is completed).
As a matter of ranking, the first to be mentioned is, obviously,
Arce
(Augusto Figueroa 32-34. Tel .: 915 220 440), one of the great gastronomic temples of the city, which has already exceeded 30 years of life.
At the forefront, today as yesterday, the sly Iñaki Camba, a master of traditional cuisine who has created a school (and never better said, because the city is full of his disciples) with
his mastery of hunting, mushrooms, smoked fish and , of course, the pickles
.
Examples include the pickled game meat salad on cream of carrots with mustard or the green apple pickled mollusks.
Pickled white tuna belly from Ponzano.
Paco García, alma mater of that outstanding food house that is
Ponzano
(Ponzano, 12. Tlf .: 914 486 880),
has long devoted himself to the cause of pickling
. So much so that on its website it even tells the story of it, that we allow ourselves to borrow from it: "
it dates back to the time of the Romans
, back in the third century. It was mentioned for the first time in
The Thousand and One Nights
, where already there was talk of meat stews with vinegar and other ingredients.In 1525, Ruperto de Nola refers to it in his book
Los guisados
.
There are three well-differentiated theories about its origin: one that points out that it derives from an Arab-Persian creation called sikbâg, whose main elements are vinegar and spices, and which is pronounced 'iskabech';
another, which indicates the preservation of a fish called alacha or aleche, together with the Latin prefix 'esca' (food);
and a last one that refers to the fact that it was the Arabs who passed on this marinating technique to the Sicilians ".
Ponzano's
menu
includes a specific section dedicated to marinades
, which includes the white tuna belly / loin, the parrochas in season (that is, from now on), the veal tongue and the Iberian acorn-fed prey in tataki.
All extremely delicate in texture and, at the same time, overflowing with flavorful power.
Pickled turkey breast from Támara-Casa Lorenzo.
Two decades ago, Lorenzo García from Palencia arrived in Madrid with the recipes he learned from his mother, Josefina, to open
Támara-Casa Lorenzo
(Máiquez, 48. Tlf .: 914 155 176), first in the basement of the Torres Blancas and from a couple of years behind the Retiro.
Among them, some canonical pickles in which the quality of the product used is striking, from first-class sea bream to lamb, including turkey breast.
And,
if you dare to try their pickles, take the opportunity to enjoy their oval potato omelette
(which must be ordered in advance) and a pannacotta that would have a legion of followers in Italy itself.
Amparito Roca.
Preceded by his success in Guadalajara, Jesús Velasco landed in the Salamanca district in the fall of 2016 with his satisfying bourgeois cuisine with unmistakable Alcarrian roots.
About to complete its first five years,
Amparito Roca
(Juan Bravo, 12. Tlf .: 913 483 304), which takes its name from a famous pasodoble, has become
one of the power tables par excellence of the capital
.
One of its main arguments are pickles, mainly game ones (for example, wood-fowl and hare with two months of rest), without forgetting fish, such as pickled bonito salad.
Barrier.
Barrera
(Alonso Cano, 25. Tlf .: 915 941 757) is
a Chamberilian family food house that has unconditional followers
, who do not come precisely to the call of a spectacular decoration, which there is not, but of exceptionally exceptional products treated by the cook Ana Barrera and sung out loud, because there is no menu, depending on the market.
Among them, some impressive pickles, among which fish stand out on their own merit, from sea bream to tuna belly, through to chicharro with mango and pomegranate.
To complete the party, already put, the roast kid is essential.
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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