Not everything is going to be bad news in the Madrid hospitality industry ... For a few weeks, the capital's showcase has been animated with
new additions
.
Some come after the success of their older brothers, like Can Bonet;
others to revitalize and update traditional cuisine, such as Don Dimas, and there are those that are born with a cosmopolitan spirit and
clandestine
airs
, such as Aurora Madrid.
A trio that will give a lot to talk about this season.
Can Bonet
Like many others, to
Esther Bonet
(Tarragona, 1978) and
Pere Vendrell
(Lleida, 1977) the
confinement
brought them an exercise in gastronomic memory - aromas, textures and flavors linked to their land, to childhood - which they reproduced on dishes.
Dishes that became the best way to feel close to those who were far away.
And it is that "the recipes of our mothers and grandmothers helped us to pass the days, and this was for us like being at home", remembers Esther.
Can Bonet room.
And those moments were the germ of this Can Bonet,
Sa Brisa's
little brother
, that unique proposal of Balearic cuisine -based with tradition, fusion, avant-garde and Ibizan products- with which Esther and Pere three years ago set out to
conquer from Madrid
.
This new
member
, who is wall to wall with Sa Brisa, represents a return to the origins, to the sea, to the mountains ... A proposal of traditional Mediterranean cuisine,
full of Catalan touches
that, on the other hand, have always been present in Esther and Pere's kitchen.
Part of the offer, with very
mare
and
àvia
recipes
, is designed to share.
Thus, it can be started with dishes such as
cod, tomato and olives
esqueixada
or local sausages (sausage, fuet with glass bread with tomato).
The
grilled smells
begin to come through the vegetables with romescu and
El mar a la brasa
(a seafood dish with white shrimp, cockles, rock mussels and razor clams).
And, for those who long
for home rice
, there is one with enlisted prawns, another with rabbit and snails ... And even a rossejat fideuá with cuttlefish and squid.
Among the main ones, more nods to Catalan cuisine.
Take a look at the dishes:
grilled toad with garlic
;
cod loin, chickpeas and sobrasada;
Cal Miquelet artisan sausage with Santa Pau beans or
black and white
artisan sausage with escalivada.
More fish (turbot with potato and onion) and meats (kid chops with aubergine and pepper or angus loin with mashed potatoes), all cooked in
a charcoal
oven
.
The fideuá of Esther Bonet and Pere Vendrell.
Address
: Menéndez Pelayo, 15. Local 2. Telephone: 91 046 44 08. Average price: 25 euros.
It does not close.
Don Dimas
The name of this new contemporary food house
with the soul of a bistro
does not pay tribute to any family member, but to Don Dimas, that fox who was the pet of Blas Infante, the father of the
Andalusian homeland
.
And it is precisely that southern cuisine is one of the queens of this new restaurant that has just opened its doors in the Salamanca district, a step away from the Retiro.
Behind his proposal, conceived with the idea of rescuing the traditional recipes of Spanish cuisine with a
very personal Andalusian touch,
is an experienced chef:
Álvaro Garcés
.
This man from Huelva -who began in the world of cooking at the age of 18- has a long professional career (he has worked with
Martín Berasategui
,
Carme Ruscalleda
and
Alain Ducasse
; he has been executive chef of renowned hotels ...) and a traveling spirit that transfer to their plates.
Don Dimas room.
Traditional cookbook, current techniques and
passion for the product
(for example, fish and seafood from the Gulf of Cádiz, the fish markets of Ayamonte, Rota ...) are the
holy trinity
of this space that brims with natural light and whose woods and velvets accentuate the bistro look.
And at the table?
From the
salpicón del Señorito
-version of the famous Andalusian dressing with white shrimp, crab, smoked eel and soft pickled mussel on a pipirrana and yuzu ice cream- and the beef tenderloin steak tartar aged 45 days on grilled marrow until honeyed pringá croquettes or the
esparragá omelette
, a
sea and mountain
with sea urchin and torrezno popcorn.
Or the chef's particular and contemporary homage to the
stiff
and
stretched out
of Seville by the hand of the
Smash and stretch
, such as the enlisted with foie mi-cuit and pine nuts, the
garum tuna
with cured tomato and
the
red shrimp
, served with egg yolk and ossetra caviar.
Among the main ones there is no shortage
of the crayfish and tendon casseroles with beans
from La Granja, the old cow meatball with cuttlefish stew or the Discarlux beef tenderloin.
As a finishing touch, homemade desserts: chocolate cake with Inés Rosales cake and picual oil, a
house
hit
, or very Andalusian cheeses such as payoyo from Cádiz, Aracena -from the mountains of Huelva- or blue from Cordoba.
Old cow meatball in cuttlefish stew, in Don Dimas.
Address
: Castelló, 1. Telephone: 617 24 47 79. Average price: 60 euros.
Closed Sunday night and Monday.
Aurora Madrid
Flying the flag of enjoyment and
hedonism
.
This is how this establishment that has just landed in Chamartín is presented.
Cosmopolitan
and club airs
underground
New York, arrives in order to
revolutionize
the
gastronomic entertainment
with live music, international cuisine, Sunday brunch, tardeos high ...
Aurora Madrid
has four different areas.
Let's go to them.
At the top, a terrace at street level and a small place -
Little Aurora
- for tapas without hours.
In the lower one,
Restaurant & Club
-the most gastronomic space, with different atmospheres and a stage for
live performances-
and the bar area, with bars and high tables (the same menu as Little Aurora works here).
And in all of them, the
kitchen as the unifier of the project
.
Aurora Madrid.
At the helm is
Javier Menéndez
, chef with a solid career behind him (El Cenador de Salvador, El Mentidero de la Villa, El Pimiento Verde ...).
He is committed to first-class raw materials and local
products
to develop a contemporary and cosmopolitan cuisine proposal that reflects his personal style.
Delicatessen such as natural oysters or with ponzu and mignonette sauce of lime and ginger arrive to the tables;
classics like the beef jerky croquettes from León;
unique dishes such as
octopus and bacon
(cooked at a
low temperature
) with osaka marinade, parmentier and green oil;
Carnivorous recipes such as the
old
beef tenderloin
with truffled potato quenelle, mushroom jam and beef juice or the steak tartare and rice dishes such as the sweet one with mushrooms and glazed Iberian cheek.
Corvina ceviche, in Aurora Madrid.
Address:
Avenida de Alberto Alcocer, 32. Telephone: 91 457 93 66. Average price: 20-50 euros.
Closed on Mondays.
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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