Some have arisen by the work and grace of chance;
for an aggrieved partner;
There are those that evoke a childhood memory and those that are born as a tribute or just because.
But they all have something in common: they are emblematic dishes that have marked
the direction of the kitchen
, from the first dining rooms of the 18th century to the present, and which have now been collected in the book
Platos con firma
(Editorial Planeta Gastro).
This anthology - selected by food experts Susan Jung;
Diego Salazar and Richard Vines, with texts by Christine Muhlke and illustrations by Adriano Rampazzo- tells the story, in chronological order, of the last 300 years of world cuisine.
The narrative format?
that have been drawing the evolution of the kitchen, named dishes, the restaurant and / or the chef who created, improved or made them famous.
I dropped the lemon cake ', by Massimo Bottura.
"There are many reasons why these dishes remain a reference. An establishment may have been
the first to serve something
, like the gelato at Le Procope in 18th-century Paris, or the last, like the soufflé al Grand Marnier from La Grenouille in New York. A chef may have invented
something totally new
, like Ferran and Albert Adrià's spherical green olives-I at elBulli, or
something very old, like Fergus Henderson's eccles cakes at St. John's ", explains in the foreword to the book Mitchell Davis, specialized journalist.
The recipes and their genesis
These proposals have stood the test of time to become icons.
And since everything has an
, each dish is accompanied by its
: when and why it was born and the role it has played in the kitchen.
The book also includes
in case you dare to make them at home.
But let's go back to the starting point, to the 18th century and to Procopio Cutò and his café, Le Procope, one of the first in Paris and the
of personalities and intellectuals of the time ... Cutò -Sicilian chef who inherited a machine from his grandfather to make sorbets - popularized
, served in an egg-shaped cup, by substituting honey for sugar and adding salt to ice to speed up the freezing process.
The fact that he had the
to exclusively sell the ice cream
contributed to this success
Vegetable stew in textures, by Ferran Adrià.
Much later, in 1936, in Nashville (Tennessee, USA), Thornton Prince III turned the
of his girlfriend into the star dish of the local Prince's Hot Chiken Shack:
, a gastronomic icon of that part of the world.
The young woman, angry because one night she had arrived very late, prepared a
fiery fried chicken
, with cayenne and many other spices.
Contrary to expectations, however, Thornton - and later legions of spicy chicken fans - loved it.
that French chef Michel Bras created in 1981 and served at his Bras restaurant was
while sipping a comforting hot chocolate after a chilly afternoon spent cross-country skiing.
But the creative process was not as fast as it seems, it took two years to perfect this dessert that has been
replicated to infinity
... and beyond, even by Bras himself, who came to make more than 100 versions.
Black cod with miso, by Nobu Matsuhisa.
There are dishes that have helped
For example, the black cod with miso that
signed in 1987, in his homonymous restaurant in the United States, and that today is available in the dozens of dining rooms and hotels that the famous Japanese chef has around the world.
Others are the result of
, like the souffle potatoes that Jean-Louis-Françoise Collinet accidentally invented in 1837, or of a
I dropped the lemon cake
, the unique
with which the Italian
surprised in 2012, at his Osteria Francescana (Modena, Italy), and which
when one of the cakes fell on the kitchen counter and was broke.
They can also be the result of a memory of adolescence.
That is the origin of the
offers in his Peruvian restaurant (Central), inspired by the
(beef hearts marinated on the grill with chili peppers) that he ate when he was a young
Carrot tartare, by Daniel Humm.
But there are more, many more, iconic recipes.
There they go:
risotto with saffron and gold
the red mullet with potato flakes, a trompe l'oeil that
, father of
signed in the 1970s
the Provencal vegetable dish with black truffle by
that made the orchard the protagonist of haute cuisine in the 80s;
the carrot tartare, with a chopper included at the diner's table, by
at Eleven Madison Park (New York) or the potted radishes by
, the unique starter that the Danish offered at his restaurant Noma, in 2010.
This anthology could not miss the great national
that have revolutionized not only Spanish cuisine, but also
And what have been the cooks and recipes chosen?
Well, let's get to it: Pedro Arregi and
the grilled turbot
that, since 1967, has been served in Elkano;
that Juan Mari Arzak devised almost 50 years ago;
from Bittor Arginzoniz, in Etxebarri;
carpaccio of trotters
Joan Roca, the first course with which she says felt really satisfied, and dessert of his brother Jordi,
Eternity by Calvin Klein
, inspired by
of Patrick Suskind, bergamot and famous fragrance of the American designer.
'Eternity by Calvin Klein, by Jordi Roca.
How not to include the
the vegetable stew in textures
by Ferrán Adrià who, in 1994, pointed the way to
the foam of smoke, a show of technique, and the
spherical green olives-I
that he created with his brother Albert.
Also present is another revolutionary of Spanish cuisine and two of his creations:
Andoni Luis Aduriz
(Mugaritz) and his
and grilled duck foie gras with hedgehog yolk caviar and a spicy accent, the result of a complex project in which he worked with professors from the University of Granada.
And to close, a mega-famous dish, the
Yes, that hamburger with special sauce that the owner of a McDonald's franchise in Pennsylvania started selling in 1967. The success was such that, in 1980,
Big Mac Index
that compares the purchasing power of different countries based on the price of this burger.
History of the kitchen ... and the economy.
, edited by Planeta Gastro, is on sale now.
Price: 45 euros.
Provence vegetable dish with black truffle, by Alain Ducasse.
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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See links of interest
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Barcelona - Seville, live