Some have arisen by the work and grace of chance;

others as


for an aggrieved partner;

There are those that evoke a childhood memory and those that are born as a tribute or just because.

But they all have something in common: they are emblematic dishes that have marked

the direction of the kitchen

, from the first dining rooms of the 18th century to the present, and which have now been collected in the book

Platos con firma

(Editorial Planeta Gastro).

This anthology - selected by food experts Susan Jung;

Howie Kahn;

Pat Nourse;

Andrea Petrini;

Diego Salazar and Richard Vines, with texts by Christine Muhlke and illustrations by Adriano Rampazzo- tells the story, in chronological order, of the last 300 years of world cuisine.

The narrative format?


238 recipes

that have been drawing the evolution of the kitchen, named dishes, the restaurant and / or the chef who created, improved or made them famous.


I dropped the lemon cake ', by Massimo Bottura.

"There are many reasons why these dishes remain a reference. An establishment may have been

the first to serve something

, like the gelato at Le Procope in 18th-century Paris, or the last, like the soufflé al Grand Marnier from La Grenouille in New York. A chef may have invented

something totally new

, like Ferran and Albert Adrià's spherical green olives-I at elBulli, or


something very old, like Fergus Henderson's eccles cakes at St. John's ", explains in the foreword to the book Mitchell Davis, specialized journalist.

The recipes and their genesis

These proposals have stood the test of time to become icons.

And since everything has an


, each dish is accompanied by its


: when and why it was born and the role it has played in the kitchen.

The book also includes

original recipes

in case you dare to make them at home.

But let's go back to the starting point, to the 18th century and to Procopio Cutò and his café, Le Procope, one of the first in Paris and the


of personalities and intellectuals of the time ... Cutò -Sicilian chef who inherited a machine from his grandfather to make sorbets - popularized


, served in an egg-shaped cup, by substituting honey for sugar and adding salt to ice to speed up the freezing process.

The fact that he had the

royal patent

to exclusively sell the ice cream

contributed to this success


Vegetable stew in textures, by Ferran Adrià.

Much later, in 1936, in Nashville (Tennessee, USA), Thornton Prince III turned the



of his girlfriend into the star dish of the local Prince's Hot Chiken Shack:

spicy chicken

, a gastronomic icon of that part of the world.

The young woman, angry because one night she had arrived very late, prepared a

fiery fried chicken

for breakfast

, with cayenne and many other spices.

Contrary to expectations, however, Thornton - and later legions of spicy chicken fans - loved it.



chocolate coulant

that French chef Michel Bras created in 1981 and served at his Bras restaurant was


while sipping a comforting hot chocolate after a chilly afternoon spent cross-country skiing.

But the creative process was not as fast as it seems, it took two years to perfect this dessert that has been

replicated to infinity

... and beyond, even by Bras himself, who came to make more than 100 versions.

Black cod with miso, by Nobu Matsuhisa.

There are dishes that have helped

build empires


For example, the black cod with miso that

Nobu Matsuhisa

signed in 1987, in his homonymous restaurant in the United States, and that today is available in the dozens of dining rooms and hotels that the famous Japanese chef has around the world.


Others are the result of


, like the souffle potatoes that Jean-Louis-Françoise Collinet accidentally invented in 1837, or of a


fall, like


I dropped the lemon cake

, the unique


with which the Italian

Massimo Bottura

surprised in 2012, at his Osteria Francescana (Modena, Italy), and which


when one of the cakes fell on the kitchen counter and was broke.

They can also be the result of a memory of adolescence.

That is the origin of the



Virgilio Martínez

offers in his Peruvian restaurant (Central), inspired by the


(beef hearts marinated on the grill with chili peppers) that he ate when he was a young



Carrot tartare, by Daniel Humm.

But there are more, many more, iconic recipes.

There they go:

Gualtiero Marchesi's

risotto with saffron and gold



the red mullet with potato flakes, a trompe l'oeil that

Paul Bocuse

, father of

Nouvelle cuisine


signed in the 1970s


the Provencal vegetable dish with black truffle by

Alain Ducasse

that made the orchard the protagonist of haute cuisine in the 80s;

the carrot tartare, with a chopper included at the diner's table, by

Daniel Humm

at Eleven Madison Park (New York) or the potted radishes by

René Redzepi

, the unique starter that the Danish offered at his restaurant Noma, in 2010.

Spanish representation

This anthology could not miss the great national


that have revolutionized not only Spanish cuisine, but also




And what have been the cooks and recipes chosen?

Well, let's get to it: Pedro Arregi and

the grilled turbot

that, since 1967, has been served in Elkano;


kaberka cake

that Juan Mari Arzak devised almost 50 years ago;


grilled anchovies

from Bittor Arginzoniz, in Etxebarri;


carpaccio of trotters

Joan Roca, the first course with which she says felt really satisfied, and dessert of his brother Jordi,

Eternity by Calvin Klein

, inspired by

the fragrance

of Patrick Suskind, bergamot and famous fragrance of the American designer.

'Eternity by Calvin Klein, by Jordi Roca.

How not to include the

elBulli universe


Here are

the vegetable stew in textures

by Ferrán Adrià who, in 1994, pointed the way to




the foam of smoke, a show of technique, and the

spherical green olives-I

that he created with his brother Albert.

Also present is another revolutionary of Spanish cuisine and two of his creations:

Andoni Luis Aduriz

(Mugaritz) and his

edible stones

and grilled duck foie gras with hedgehog yolk caviar and a spicy accent, the result of a complex project in which he worked with professors from the University of Granada.

And to close, a mega-famous dish, the

Big Mac


Yes, that hamburger with special sauce that the owner of a McDonald's franchise in Pennsylvania started selling in 1967. The success was such that, in 1980,

The Economist

devised the

Big Mac Index

that compares the purchasing power of different countries based on the price of this burger.

History of the kitchen ... and the economy.

Signature plates

, edited by Planeta Gastro, is on sale now.

Price: 45 euros.

Provence vegetable dish with black truffle, by Alain Ducasse.

According to the criteria of The Trust Project

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