We have been
a pandemic for a year
and, fortunately, METRÓPOLI has been back for several months in its monitoring of leisure, culture and entertainment.
In that time we have attended the farewell of several beloved restaurants, although fortunately fewer than feared, thanks to the
resistance
of
Numantine
entrepreneurs.
Saying goodbye to Zalacain or Santceloni is hard because they symbolize Madrid's rise to the top division of world gastronomy.
As it has been hard to say goodbye, before this crisis and during it, to Spanish and foreign chefs such as Sergi Arola, Andrés Madrigal, Rogelio Barahona, Estanis Carenzo, Omar Malpartida ...
Well, look what a happy coincidence:
rumors
are
confirmed
that new owners are going to reopen Zalacain with their entire previous team, and one of those we missed,
Roberto Ruiz,
reappears in a new place with a more local culinary offer - from the Pacific Mexican- and his
usual perfectionism
.
It is capital news that we have not lost the
first Mexican chef
to earn a Michelin star in Europe - the red guide can also be right - and that, after solving the problems that the
Punto MX
store
and a partner
had caused him
, open his
Barracuda MX
in such an original place -which has already hosted two well-known restaurants- as a
nineteenth
-
century
carriage
garage
in the Retiro neighborhood.
Roberto Ruiz with part of his team Diego Martínez
In fact, already in the last stage of Punto MX, Roberto took that turn towards dishes and products from the Pacific.
Here he accentuates it, with a perhaps less cosmopolitan but even more genuine tone of his kitchen.
Well supported
by his wife,
María Fernández
, and his well-rounded team in a place much more worthy of his
talent
, Roberto has already given us a first walk through his new offer full of freshness in which, as always, he includes some Spanish ingredients very welcome, from bluefin tuna to Iberian pork.
This first glance has been
impeccable
, and we are waiting for more dishes such as the chicharrón guacamole: we tried the one with chipped prawns, a touch
of acid freshness
.
We observed an adequate level of spiciness, but not excessive, throughout the tour, which included a
magnificent oyster
with fermented chili sauce and a passion fruit granita;
an aguachile -that relative of the ceviche so classic in the Pacific- comes
back to life
with scallops, prawns and octopus marinated in chiltepin chili, coriander and lemon;
some
beef belly
memelas
(thick corn tortillas) with jalapeño and amaranth sauce;
two types of taco: tongue with green tomatillo and chiltepin sauce and, a classic, the black pastor taco, in this case of Iberian pork with avocado sauce and covered with pineapple and crispy pork rinds.
No, we lacked the legendary
marrow grilled
Roberto with his toast bluefin tuna
toreado
and emulsion serrano chiles:
haute cuisine
.
Then some good but less surprising desserts;
The tres leches torrija with guava sauce is rich.
By the way:
remarkable wine list
, as well as micheladas and margaritas.
This kitchen pairs perfectly with an Alsatian Riesling from Zind Humbrecht!
More information about Barracuda MX
Valenzuela, 7
-
91 108 89 99
Opening hours: Does not close
-
Official Website: https://barracudamx.es/
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