Tapeo of the XXI century. Six places that have reinvented and modernized the concept of the capital's snack food.
In February 2020, the brothers Carlos and Enrique Valentí launched the
Hermanos Vinagre
project
, in one of the most
appetizing
areas
of Madrid, Retiro.
From the moment it opened, the bar of the small place in Narváez 58, where once there was a butter shop, became a pilgrimage point for those looking for traditional appetizers such as pickles, salted fish and marinades in version 2.0, this is adapted to the 21st century and made handcrafted by themselves.
But, for well-known reasons that we prefer not to remember, the success lasted only a month ...
Pickled smoked mussels.
When the so-called de-climbing began at the end of spring,
Hermanos Vinagre
resumed the activity almost at full capacity.
Its double gildas, its natural cockles accompanied by a pipette of lime and one of spicy to season them to taste, its trilogy of anchovies (prepared and seasoned; on butter toast and with confit green pepper), its anchovies in vinegar, the Canonical Russian salad presented in a matryoshka, the XXL smoked pickled mussels, its fresh tuna as if it were mojama with almonds, its pickled foie micuit or the spicy and creamy sobrasada Lyo, made with matured beef, caused almost daily fillings.
Fresh tuna as if it were mojama with almonds.
So much so that the Valentí brothers "have had no choice" but to open a second branch at the beginning of December, in this case in the Chueca neighborhood (Gravina, 17), in the premises that would house the extinct
Barra Atlántica
project
.
A much larger space where legendary Spanish musical successes of the 80s sound and in which, to the aforementioned dishes, new proposals have been added such as the resounding Lyo matured meat steak tartare, a powerful explosion of flavors.
Also, an interesting cocktail menu.
It will be, yes or yes, one of the hot spots in the coming months.
The dining room of 'La Caníbal'.
Although
Hermanos Vinagre is
the great novelty of recent times, it is not the only establishment responsible for the renewal of the capital aperitif.
In Lavapiés is
La Caníbal
(Argumosa, 28), a very personal project by Javier Vázquez, also responsible for the neighboring
O'Pazo de Lugo
.
Vázquez is committed to products from small producers, artisan beers and cheeses and a huge winery, with almost 500 references, a predominance of sherry and natural wines, and up to eight options, which stand out for their radicality and change regularly, served on tap.
For tapas, octopus, empanada or an overwhelming omelette with ham, chorizo and turnip greens.
Without leaving Lavapiés,
La Fisna
(Amparo, 91) has also broken molds.
It is a wine cellar that has more than 300 references that Delia Baeza and Iñaki Gómez dispatch to take away or to drink on site at store prices plus three euros of corkage.
The gastronomic offer varies depending on the season, from candied artichokes to beans with partridge ... Of course, be sure to try the Zamora tomato salad if there is one.
It also organizes tasting courses.
Croquettes from 'La Tajada'.
La Tajada
(Ramón de Santillán, 15), in Chamartín, is the most informal bet of the Madrid chef Iván Sáez.
Located just around the corner from its gastronomic
Desencaja
, it has a bar and low tables where the undisputed stars are the ham croquettes, cod fritters, ratatouille with egg and torreznos from Soria and, if we dare to put ourselves a little more robust, some anthological tripe and paella rice dishes that are well worth trying.
Sausages from "Marcelino, Vinos y Ultraporcinos".
"A project that arises from the love for wine and all products derived from pork".
This is how its managers define
Marcelino, Vinos y Ultraporcinos
(Pintor Rosales, 48), one of the epicenters of the aperitif in front of the Parque del Oeste, with a cozy urban terrace.
Obviously, sausages and sausages of first quality are the undisputed kings here, from some unusual ones such as the morcón exremeño, the Castilian-Leonese black pudding from Lorana, the txoris from the Arán valley or the Balearic camaiot to unavoidable classics such as chorizo, salami, longaniza , sobrasada and, of course, Iberian ham.
It offers the possibility of ordering
monovarietal
portions
or varied tables and has a good assortment of wines by the glass.
There is another branch in Chamberí, on Caracas Street, which is currently closed.
Torreznos from "Salino".
To close the circle of this journey through the capital 2.0 openings, we returned to that Retiro neighborhood where we started.
There we find
Salino
(Menorca, 4), third place (not in order of importance, but in chronological order according to the opening date) of the brothers Francisco and Javier Aparicio, after
Cachivache
and
La Raquetista
.
At the entrance bar, some unbeatable torreznos alone justify the visit, but the spider crab croquettes, the salad, the version of patatas bravas or the oysters with bloody Mary are also worth it.
In the back dining room, Javier's creative Mediterranean-based fusion proposals reign, such as the chicken taco with guacamole and mango or the mogote dumplings in colored butter.
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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