Dani García in his new restaurant, at the five-star Four Seasons.
The Andalusian chef tells about Dani, the luxury brasserie located on the top floor of the exclusive Four Seasons Madrid hotel that has just opened its doors
It is an eclectic and informal proposal, with "haute cuisine connotations" that avoids corsets.
With independent access to the seventh floor of the hotel, it has a terrace with spectacular views of the capital
It is not that
(Marbella, 1975) has gained momentum in recent months, it is that the momentum brings it as standard.
At least it looks like it.
Restless and almost hyperactive, the soul and body of BiBo (Madrid, Marbella, Tarifa and Doha), Lobito de Mar (Marbella and Madrid) and Leña (opened last June in Marbella, where Dani García Restaurante was located, closed in 2019, at year of obtaining the three Michelin stars) has had an intense week.
On Monday the 21st, the Great Mediterranean Family started in the capital, its food delivery service that will soon arrive in Barcelona and Marbella, and today, Friday the 25th,
: an elegant
luxury brasserie called to touch the Madrid sky.
A touch in the gastronomic and (almost) in the physical, because the new space of the Andalusian chef and businessman is located
on the seventh and top floor of the brand new and exclusive Four Seasons Madrid hotel
The first branch in Spain of this Canadian hotel chain is part of
the Canalejas Center,
a luxury macro-complex that brings together seven historic buildings in the capital, all rehabilitated and recovered to become a benchmark for avant-garde leisure and tourism and whose first phase has just been completed. be inaugurated after seven years of works.
Dani's terrace offers spectacular views of the city.Ó.R.
How did Dani come about?
"Some time ago, when the promoters of the complex presented the project to us, we liked it and, when they confirmed that Four Seasons was going to manage it, we liked it even more.
We have been working on it for at least two years
and I have to say that I am tremendously happy for the choice; they could have brought
any chef in the world, but they chose us.
In that sense I feel privileged ", explains Dani García.
The opening takes place just when clouds of possible closures of bars and restaurants hang over Madrid, however, the Marbella chef
has chosen to take it with
"We must not go thinking that we are going to open today and close tomorrow. If we have to close, we will, we must not go head butting. I am not saying it only for Dani, but in general. Energy must be lost in doing things the best possible, in
trying that each client that arrives, leaves satisfied, right now that is our only objective
. Reality prevails, it puts you in your place and you have to play with it in the most sensible way possible and without letting frustration eats you, "he says.
Interior of the restaurant.Ó.R.
And the reality is Dani, a dining room that fits the concept of the
kitchen of the future that this group has
"As my mother used to say, you have to put the eggs in different baskets. We like to work for McDonald's, for La Gran Familia, for BiBo, Lobito or Leña ... And we also like to set up
a brasserie restaurant in a five-star hotel. great luxury stars
that, in addition, fit with our vision of what this type of restaurant should be: a
in every way
, with menus that satisfy both the customer staying at the hotel and the Madrilenian diner, the
or the people who follow us, "Garcia specifies.
This is, an extensive menu, in which creativity, technique, avant-garde and traditional Andalusian recipes coexist
with the stamp of the creator of the new Andalusian cuisine
suitable for all audiences and tastes
Green gazpacho, nitro tomato and shrimp tartare, one of the Andalusian chef's icons.Ó.R.
From updated classics like Dani's Tortilla (with caramelized onion and blu di bufala cheese);
Dani's César (with smoked sardines, chicken, Parmesan and almonds);
Dani's Burger Rossini (with old beef and Iberian secret with foie gras) or tuna sirloin (with Cádiz onion, celery and red sorrel) to
in the culinary history of the Marbella chef and his Dani García Restaurant.
"In the menu
there are nuances of what we were
three Michelin dishes
, such as nitro tomato with green gazpacho, anchovy with truffle, eel, and, above all, some of the
, the one
that led us to three o'clock
Although in the proposal there are pieces that due to their value and gastronomic recognition could be part of an anthology, Dani's menu is not.
"In the end, you try to cover all the gaps. On the one hand,
the Four Seasons customer
who, just like
a hamburger or pasta, can eat, without being part of a 16-pass tasting menu,
a couple of dishes of high level
, like the can of caviar with tarragon that we had a season or the nitro tomato. Or why not finish with a grilled meat.
We are in a hotel and we have to satisfy and make all kinds of public happy
Tuna sirloin with onion, another must.Ó.R.
The common thread of the concept runs away from corsets: "If I came here,
I would eat, for example, the nitro tomato and end up with a rich hamburger ...
Why can't it? Why are we corseted when we go to a restaurant? dining room? ", reflects García.
And he continues: "
Is haute cuisine exclusively the tasting menu of a three Michelin star?
For me there are more things: the dishes, the atmosphere, the service, the light ... Everything that happens around a restaurant. In a luxurious setting, they bring me a sandwich with a good ham, a good melted cheese, a good toasted butter, crunchy, melting ..., I don't need the caviar to arrive, because eating an incredibly made mix there Well, it is also luxury. And that is our vision and that's what we are going for in Dani: that you eat
the best croissant in the world, a great hamburger and, sooner or later, an anchovy with truffle or caviar ".
THE MADRILEÑO SKYLINE
The place has an
independent entrance on Calle Sevilla
, directly to the seventh floor, to the sky of Madrid, since its roof terrace offers
"I do not know all the terraces in Madrid, but I doubt that there is a better one than this. It is brutal and
I think it will become an iconic terrace for Madrid
", ventures the Andalusian chef.
In terms of decoration, the place is committed to a colonial interior design (by the
Swedish studio of Martin Brudnizki
, one of the great international designers of restaurants and hotels), where green, yellow and certain red elements predominate that provide warmth and harmony to the establishment.
Carrot tartare with EVOO caviar and sunflower seeds.Ó.R.
As for the
team, "it's one hundred percent from Four Seasons
. They are very skilled and very good people, because not everyone enters this hotel chain that is at the top of the pyramid. Their team is brutal, even so, for a month and a half, two members of our group will accompany them in the kitchen:
, chef de cuisine at Dani García three stars, and
, our R&D director, "he says.
At the head of the room is
Manuel Santos e Silva
, with a long history in restaurants -such as Alma, the Lisbon star with two Michelin stars- and in other European headquarters of the hotel chain.
The liquid proposal, directed by the renowned sommelier
, exceeds 400 references, with special vintages and signature labels;
a varied selection of wines by the glass of the main Spanish DOs, champagnes, cavas ... Without forgetting a careful cocktail menu, by
, one of the best bartenders in the world.
DANI A SECAS
Although other names were considered for the restaurant,
the hotel chain chose Dani
"I think they
want to convey that it is something very personal and
, and I think that Dani embodies who we are deep down, because in essence they are our dishes in their purest form."
A very personal and exclusive "something".
"Of course, deep down they [Four Seasons] have the exclusivity of
the recipes that we stopped making last year
. In the end, they have something that nobody has and I think there is nothing more exclusive than, for example, nitro tomato ", he points out.
The burger offer is varied.
It is difficult for Dani García to feel successful, not even looking at his present from the top of the Four Seasons is totally satisfied, because "there is still much to do.
Success is ephemeral, for it to last something else you have to work
. What gambling dens work for us , yes, but I want them to continue doing it next year and the next and the next ... For that reason, I am never satisfied. We are happy about how we are doing, but not confident. We have to continue day by day and there is to give everything ".
And now it's time to do it in this luxurious,
, with "connotations of a haute cuisine restaurant"
and informal that "includes the proposal of the two-star Dani García and some dishes with which we arrive at three. place where you can have a truffle stuffed chicken or a lobster salad with nitro popcorn at reasonable and reasonable prices and also a hamburger or pasta.
We will go further
, without a doubt. "
Sevilla, 3. Telf .: 91 088 33 33. It opens from Monday to Sunday with food service (from 12 a.m. to 4 p.m.), dinner (from 7 p.m. to 11 p.m.) and bar (from 12 a.m. to 12 p.m.).
Average price: 70-80 euros.
Old cow tartar
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