In the natural park of the Sierra Norte de Guadalajara there is a series of villages built in slate that blend in with the surroundings
Just over 100 km from Madrid, in the Natural Park of the Sierra Norte de Guadalajara (also known as the Sierra de Ayllón), there is a place where time seems to have stopped . Among beech trees, quejigares, pine groves and holm oaks, and in the shadow of the Ocejón Peak, whose peak at 2,048 m dominates the entire region, is a series of tiny villages that could have left a cinematic decoration. However, they are real, they are not abandoned and in them people still live with their ancestral traditions (you just have to look at the smoke that comes from the chimneys of some of the houses). Formed by cobbled streets and sober constructions of black slate, that blend in with the surroundings due to the dark color on roofs and walls of both houses and churches, stables, sheds, etc., these villages are a haven of peace and tranquility that only They are interrupted by the presence of curious tourists on weekends. There are more than twenty villas scattered throughout the mountains that form what is called the route of the Villages of Black Architecture, proposed to be classified as World Heritage by UNESCO; We propose some must-visit to make a rural getaway.
Point
The small town of Tamajón , with about 150 inhabitants, is the gateway to the Black Villages. Composed of houses built in stone, among its most important enclaves are the Romanesque Church of La Asunción, built in the thirteenth century on a mound at one end of the village. It was renovated in the 16th century following a Renaissance style. In addition to the parish, it is worth seeing the Town Hall, located in the Palacio de los Mendoza (16th century), a Plateresque building, and the one known as the Enchanted City of Guadalajara, a set of natural limestone constructions with diverse shapes on the outskirts . Next to them, is the Romanesque hermitage of the Virgen de los Enebrales.
Previous districts are Almiruete, Muriel and Palancares . The latter, about 15 km from Tamajón, has the peculiarity of having only eight inhabitants. Its black architecture houses are perfectly preserved. It is an important point for hiking enthusiasts, since the village leaves several paths between the native forests of oaks and quejigos that surround it with the best views of the Ocejón Peak, which watches over the place.
It also has good views of the neighboring Mount Almiruete . Among the black constructions, the Romanesque church of the Assumption of Our Lady stands out, dating from the 13th century, the main example of its cultural heritage. Also stand out the Old Fountain, of 1794, in honor of Carlos IV, and the ruins of the Hermitage of Soledad, next to the cemetery, built during the counter-reform.
Campillejo, El Espinar, Campillo de Ranas, Roblelacasa ... are other villages that make up the route. Among those with more charm are Robleluengo, Majaelrayo and Valverde de los Arroyos, very close to each other. Robleluengo preserves one of the most beautiful sets of slate buildings in a charming natural environment dominated by the Valley of Robles and bathed by the Jaramilla River in the background. At the foot of the Ocejón is Majaelrayo , which surprises by how well preserved its streets and slate buildings are. It is also a meeting point for hikers, since from the town there is a route of about 13 kilometers and a slope of 864 meters (medium difficulty without snow and high in winter) to access the summit of Ocejón.
For its part, Valverde de los Arroyos is undoubtedly one of the most significant towns on the Route. Only 80 inhabitants live in it and, walking among its stone paths, you can see the few houses of two floors built in slate, the fountain of the Plaza Mayor and the Parish Church of San Ildefonso. To 26 km to the south, Retiendas is located, a population of 44 inhabitants where the Cistercian monastery of Santa María de Bonaval, from the 12th century is located. Only part of the church is preserved.
The wedding town
20 km from Retienda is Campillo de las Ranas , municipality of 50 inhabitants, which, in addition to being part of the Black Architecture Route, is known as the "wedding", since its mayor was one of the first to officiate homosexual marriages, after the approval of the law. In it, ceremonies with various themes are held every weekend. In addition to the beautiful natural and scenic surroundings that surround the town, the parish church stands out among its alleys, which is also built with slate slabs combined with limestone in the tower.
Where to sleep
To the wind of the Ocejón | You were, s / n, El Espinar | Tel .: 620 23 68 25 | 750 euros / two nights / maximum 12 people. Rural establishment with two floors on the route of the Black Villages, built on slate and using the natural and traditional materials of the area. The house, with six rooms, is rented entirely. The garden has two areas: a patio with plants and a fountain and the part of the charcoal barbecue, with tables to eat in groups. It can organize active tourism activities, such as hiking, cross-country skiing or snowshoeing.
The Age of Aunt Donata | Camino Robleluengo, s / n, Campillo de Ranas, Guadalajara | Tel .: 949 86 40 11 | 140 euros / 2 nights. Charming rural house on the outskirts of the town, nestled in the heart of the Black Villages, between forests of oaks and jaras. Slate and wood, it has six cozy rooms. In the lounge, with a wood-burning fireplace, guests have a library, board games, DVD collection ... Breakfast is included.
Where to eat
Game meat, such as braised wild boar or pickled partridge, and roasts, made from kid or lamb, are convincing and comforting dishes that are not lacking in the area's tables on the cold winter days. The stews, the crumbs, the beans, the products of the slaughter ... are also typical. In the town of Valverde de los Arroyos, there is the cozy Los Cantos (Arroyo, 1028. Tel .: 627 65 48 18), a stone house and wooden beams with fireplace in the dining room, which serves Castilian homemade food (roast kid , Lamb Chops...). Crumbs, croquettes and roasts in Los Manzanos (Plaza Mayor, 8. Campillo de Ranas. Tel .: 949 82 33 87). It also has a bar service for snacks and fast meals. In the same town, La Fragua (Schools, 42. Tel .: 949 86 40 42), a small place to eat game, oxtail and croquettes (menu, 14 euros). The kid roasted in a wood-fired oven is one of Cogolludo's most demanded dishes and can be taken at the Hermanos Martínez restaurant (Plaza Mayor C, 19. Tel .: 949 85 50 41), along with other specialties, crumbs and mushrooms.
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