The GreenHouse

16

• Kitchen

  Outstanding

• Service

  Outstanding

• Cellar

  Remarkable

• Decoration / atmosphere

  Outstanding

• Madrid
• Average price: From 120 to 160 euros
• Author's kitchen

Our critic visits the new headquarters of the dining room of Rodrigo de la Calle, one of the most interesting and surprising restaurants in Madrid

Overcome some obstacles beyond the control of this chronicler, we have finally been able to see the current cuisine of Rodrigo de la Calle in his capital's Greenhouse - before he was in the mountains -, without doubt one of the most interesting and surprising restaurants in Madrid, outside of all the canons and styles . It is a reflection of the constant evolution of a chef who already in his beginnings in Aranjuez and then in his brief first step through Madrid showed his devotion to plant products, but that every day seems to go a little further in his research and his creations.

There are no similarities between the cuisine of De la Calle and Ferran Adrià, but in the spirit of the one that seeks to differentiate itself : if there is a chef in Spain who can marvel and relocate the client simultaneously, as Ferran did in his best times in El Bulli, maybe it's From the Street. That was deconstruction and this, perhaps, vegetableization . But the search for originality is similar.

The transformation of the place already surprises those who knew it once: the vast dining room of Sudestada has been largely occupied by a large and visible kitchen, there are plants everywhere and very few tables. One is soon surprised that what awaits him is an experience .

As usually happens today, several menus that vary frequently, all with a vegetable base : whole green, finished in red meat and blue fish, and the luxury menu, Vegetalia , with the latest created by the chef. There is an interesting wine list, but it is already known that De la Calle has developed drinks from vegetables and fruits -melon, yuzu, kefir, beet ...- that he prefers and that are pleasant and fresh, often somewhat sweet , no doubt, but that still seem the most forced part of the current concept. We continue to see the counterpoint of the most interesting wine.

The multiple snacks, usually small, provide some very happy moments, demonstrating a very thorough work to combine flavors and textures that many times we did not even suspect : starters such as the kimchi pie with cappuccino leaf, the spinach croquette with crespa cabbage , an exquisite celery pie with mushroom and truffle duxelles ...

And we continue: pickled escorzoneras with caviar and sorrels, a chicory and black truffle salad, an interlude with animal protein that is an Àgreda red pork royale , caviar, salmon and bacon infusion. And maybe our four favorite dishes : vegetable stew with borage and black garlic -pure flavor-, grilled pineapple mushrooms with seaweed and celery demi-glace, steamed calçots with bean broth and egg yolk with mash Robuchon, chard, oxtail and Alba truffles.

There are surprises in each service, in each batch. A bread of mother dough kept two years, imposing; a bread baked with sweet potato with Shropshire cheese ...

The descriptions do not explain much, of course: it is a kitchen to taste it . Some things will leave us somewhat skeptical, but many of us will love them . It is a new way, for the first time explored.

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