Restaurants

Sacha

17

  • Kitchen

    Outstanding

  • Service

    Outstanding

  • Cellar

    Remarkable

  • Decoration / atmosphere

    Outstanding

  • Madrid
  • Average price: 50 to 70 euros
  • Author's kitchen

Our gastronomic critic visits the dining room of Sacha Hormaechea, one of the most extraordinary and original houses of the capital's mesonera scene

For the record, we have thoroughly reviewed the latest edition of the Michelin guide of Spain and Portugal, which recommends 104 restaurants within the limits of the city of Madrid, to ensure we do not err, and do not err: this year, like all previous years, one of the most extraordinary and original tables in the capital, Sacha (Botillería and Fogón, continues to pray its glass door), does not appear with three, nor with two, nor with a star, nor without a star . It simply does not figure. For those responsible (Spanish? French?) Of Michelin, Sacha does not deserve to appear in his guide.

Michelin's contempt for many restaurants in Spain is famous and comes from far away. We are several critics of important Spanish media who have pointed them out. But, without a doubt, Sacha's absence is, every year, one of the most inexplicable and unfair .

It is important? Not much, but appearing in the red guide always helps attract first-time foreign clients in Madrid. Fortunately, Sacha doesn't need them.

For a long time we did not review in these pages the news of the cuisine of Sacha Hormaechea, and it is time to do it, not only as a relief, but to ratify that our reproaches to Michelin remain justified and above all to indicate that this unique character In our mesonera scene it continues, unperturbed, improving and creating. This house was already a favorite of ours in the 70s , when his mother, Pitila, dazzled the locals with his "blunt plates" section and his monkfish and prawns skewer (which we still see here sometimes). A recent meal, without the slightest fault from beginning to end, has illustrated well the way that this great chef (and great photographer) has to link tradition with today , which is not to add some Peruvian chili pepper to a classic dish, but of give a twist from the native product itself. And, yes, always include some pure product; the other day, black scallops and cockles.

Equally pure is the rest, but with a wink: the knives arrive enhanced by an aioli made with roasted garlic, truly remarkable ; The suquet of carabineros is not the usual soup, but a light stew with ñoras, onion, paprika and seawater. Originality grows even more with some hake tacos with mayonnaise on his head , which is exactly that: without eggs, it is made with the head of hake, oil and vinegar. And roasted marrow, and fake lasagna of txangurro, and the famous vague tortilla (with homemade crispy potato chips and the egg only curdled below; if there is luck, and there was, some Iberian ham lasquitas above). And, finally, those thought fritters that are also exactly that - if they explain it to some gingerbreads, they pass out - because they are battered brains, with sugar and cinnamon . For dessert! Very good

The wine list, brief but balanced . And some hidden treasure.

Sacha is taste and pleasure. Those in the red book miss it .

According to the criteria of

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