A new competition for the Tokyo Olympics, sports climbing.

Tomoa Narasaki, who was the most promising candidate for the gold medal in the men's combined men's complex held on the 5th, did not reach the medal in 4th place.

After the battle, Ace said, "I'm full of reflection points. I felt the small chance of once every four years and the difficulty of putting out all my strength."

Laid Plans

The compound final was scheduled to be contested by eight players, but a French player with overwhelming speed withdrew due to injury and was contested by seven players.


As a result, Narasaki, who is good at speed, is more likely to win the 1st place, but Narasaki said, "Because all the opponents have slower times than me, I was at a loss how to fight." He says he was confused.

In the final at that speed, he said in his heart, "I was greedy and thought,'I want to set a good time and win.'"


Then, I made a mistake of slipping my foot immediately after the start, and I stayed in 2nd place.

Even so, Narasaki said, "I got the minimum second place," and tried to regain the bouldering, which he is most good at next.

However, I couldn't climb the second of the three tasks, which requires dynamic movement, which Narasaki is good at, and I couldn't reach 3rd place either.



The pre-war scenario of "I want to decide the game when I finish speed and bouldering" has collapsed.

Narasaki said, "If you play an active part in the Olympics, your climbing name will increase and you will get more attention. Your motivation will definitely increase. It is my mission to play an active part." I faced.



However, one month before the Olympics, a person concerned with Narasaki said, "I'm originally a player who wants to enjoy climbing freely, but my recent psychological condition is not good. I'm addicted to" I have to do "." I was worried about the strength of.



Expectations from those around me for the gold medal and expectations for myself. I think all of them were under pressure. After the final, when I asked him that, he blamed himself, saying, "I thought I would definitely be able to do it from the results of the tournament so far. I wonder if I was a little proud of that."



Even so, it was a good attitude for Japanese ace to strengthen all three types, which have completely different speed, bouldering, lead, muscles to use, and required abilities.



Narasaki, who finished the first Olympics with a bitter result, vowed to start again, saying, "I think I was able to show that there are various climbs in sports climbing. Then, I want to show a good performance."