The Japan Cup for sports climbing speed was held in Kyoto, and Tomoa Narasaki, a boy who was nominated for the Tokyo Olympics, set a new record in Japan at 5 seconds 72, which is a good time in the world, and aimed for a gold medal. The result was high expectations for the Olympics.

The speed of sports climbing is an event that competes for the speed of climbing on a universal course with a wall of 15 meters in height, and it will be the first in the third compound event held at the Tokyo Olympics.



The Japan Cup of Speed ​​was held in Kameoka City, Kyoto Prefecture, without spectators as a countermeasure against the new coronavirus.



In the men's Tokyo Olympics, Narasaki, who is the most prominent gold medal player, broke his own Japanese record of 5 seconds 79 in the semi-finals of the final tournament, and in the final immediately after that, he further updated to 5 seconds 72 and achieved the tournament's first victory, expecting the Olympics. Left a growing result.



The men's world record for speed was 5 seconds 48, which was set by an Iranian player who specializes in speed in 2017, and Narasaki's Japanese record was close to 0 seconds 24.



In the final of the women's final tournament, Noguchi and Miho Nonaka, who were unofficially decided to represent the Olympics, met, and while Nonaka slipped immediately after the start, Noguchi climbed without major mistakes and achieved his first victory. I did.



Noguchi showed his growth in this event, which he was not good at, marking his first 8 seconds in the tournament on the 6th, such as setting a personal best of 8 seconds 68 in the semifinals.

Narasaki "Let's beat the professional players by summer"

Narasaki pointed out that the reason for the good record was that he learned how to climb to skip the hold while working from last year in order to aim for a more straight route, and strengthened the lower body.



Narasaki said, "I'm focusing more on strengthening my legs. I can kick walls and holds strongly. If I kick strongly, my body will rise faster and my arms will be pulled faster," he said. It was revealed that the weight training was newly introduced from January.



Narasaki said, "I hope I can beat the speed specialists by the summer, so I think we have made good adjustments for the Tokyo Olympics, which is competing in the third type of compound including speed. I was confident.

Women's champion Noguchi "Grow without making mistakes even if you attack"

Noguchi said, "I was confident that I would continue to face the speed I was not good at even when there was no tournament, so I'm glad that the time increased little by little. Did.



One of the reasons for his growth was the movement called "Chia Skip" to skip the hold immediately after the start. "I have come to understand the good timing of" Chia Skip ". Also, I can understand the movement of jumping three times in a row at the end. I got a sense of speed, and now I don't make mistakes even if I climb aggressively. I think it's growth that I've been aiming for my personal best every race. " It was.