Sports Climbing Competition Noguchi, who has been unofficially decided to win the Olympics, wins the women's lead November 1, 19:55

In sports climbing, a competition was held in Ehime that gathered the representatives of the Tokyo Olympics to solve the shortage of actual battles of the top athletes in Japan, and Akiyo Noguchi, the representative of the Tokyo Olympics, won the women's lead. ..

This competition was held by the Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association in an attempt to solve the shortage of actual battles of top athletes while many competitions were canceled or postponed due to the spread of the new coronavirus infection. Saijo City, Ehime Prefecture It was done without the audience.



A total of 34 men and women, including the representative members of this season's World Cup, participated in the competition, with bouldering on the 31st of the first day and lead on the 1st.



In the women's lead, Noguchi, who has been appointed as the representative of the Tokyo Olympics, was the only one in the final with a stable climb, climbing to the end and winning the championship.

In the men's lead, Tomoaki Takata won the championship following the bouldering the day before.

Tomoa Narasaki, who has been nominated for the Olympic team, was in 7th place.



At the tournament, in order for overseas fans of Corona to enjoy climbing the top Japanese athletes, the competition was delivered online with English comments for the first time at the tournament sponsored by the Japan Association, and the coaches of the Japanese national team The athletes who finished the competition introduced the characteristics of Japanese athletes in English.

Noguchi "The results of training have come out."

Noguchi, who won the women's lead, said, "There was a part where the movement of the left foot became narrower toward the end, and I was exhausted because I hated such a part, but I practiced narrow movements and I was able to respond. It was good. I felt that the results of the training had been achieved throughout the two days. I will be able to get into the training further. "

On the other hand, Narasaki, who was in 7th place in the men's lead, said, "I wasn't feeling sick at the stage of adjustment before the tournament, but I felt that the timing of up and down and back and forth was off due to body movements. I was very tired from concentrating, but I'm glad I was able to experience this kind of thing, "he said positively.

Akiyo Noguchi Evolution Proof to Tokyo Olympics

"After all, I feel tight" Akiyo


Noguchi showed a crisp look on the blue uniform of the Japanese national team for the first time in a year since the World Cup last October.

While bouldering on the first day was second and the lead on the first day showed victory and stability, the 31-year-old veteran had a scene that proved that he was still evolving.

Bouldering on the first day.

The course was called an "task" and the final had four tasks.

Of these, Noguchi was the only one who succeeded in climbing once, while other players struggled with the task of requiring continuous movement of limbs called "coordination" on a gently sloping wall. was.



He says that he is not good at such gently sloping walls and continuous movements.

Even so, I am overcoming my weaknesses as a result of my steady efforts while the game is restricted by the new coronavirus.



Since he was a junior high school student, Noguchi has been practicing with his father's handmade climbing wall in a corner of the barn of the ranch run by his parents' house.

Furthermore, in May, with the support of sponsors, a practice field was completed on the premises of my parents' house, where all three types of walls, speed, bouldering, and reed, were lined up.



In Japan's premier training environment, we asked an outside route setter to set up various tasks on a gently sloping wall, and we set the time each day at the speed of the third type, which was delayed in strengthening. I am working hard on special training in anticipation of the gold medal at the Olympic Games.



In March, it was decided to postpone the Tokyo Olympics, which was decided to be the final stage of active duty.

"I was very anxious about what to do if it was canceled as it is," he recalls.



It's been about half a year since then.

While facing the old and new walls at my parents' home, which is also my starting point, the tournament gradually resumed even in sports climbing, although it was different from the past, such as no spectators, and my feelings changed positively.

(Akiyo Noguchi)


"The people around me say,'I think the Olympics can be done' and'will be held,'so I'll do my best by believing that. From now on, each race will be a countdown to the Olympics for me. I want to climb each challenge carefully. ”With



the influence of Corona continuing, there may be limited opportunities for Noguchi to fight in the blue national team uniform by next summer.

Even so, it seems that you can see the climb that is condensed with the trace of effort and the feelings for your favorite climbing.