Sports climbing composite girl Noguchi et al. 4 people to the final August 18 20:57
The World Championship of Sport Climbing held in Hachioji, Tokyo is a qualifying event for multiple girls who have the right to participate in the Tokyo Olympics. We advanced to the final where people compete for the top eight.
The International Sports Climbing Federation has decided to give the top 7 men and women the right to participate in the Tokyo Olympics in a combination of world championships. I will be selected as the Olympic representative at the time of the tournament.
On the 18th, 20 qualifiers were held for the mixed girls, and the 30-year-old Noguchi, the 15-year-old high school first-year Mori player, and the 17-year-old high-school second-year ITO Four of the 22-year-old Nonaka players who won the combined Japan Cup of Kotoshi advanced to the final where the top eight players compete.
In qualifying,
▽ Noguchi is 10th in speed, 4th in bouldering, 2nd in lead, 80 points total, 2nd place,
▽ Mori is 18th in speed, 16th in bouldering, 1st in lead, 5th place with a total of 288 points,
▽ Ito is 4th in speed, 5th in bouldering, 15th in lead, 6th in total, 300 points,
▽ Nakano passed 5th in speed, 5th in bouldering, 14th in lead and 8th place with a total of 420 points.
Nanako Kurana did not advance to the final in 19th place.
The final of the combined women's was held on the 20th, and Japanese players will compete for one frame of the Tokyo Olympic national team decided in this tournament with four people.
NHK will tell you about the finals of the composite girls via BS1.
Noguchi “Don't worry about other players”
Keiyo Noguchi, who advanced to the final in the second place, the top of the Japanese players, said with a smile about the results, "I didn't expect to advance to the final in such a good ranking, so I was honest."
On the other hand, as for bouldering, who was good at 4th place, he touched on the wall called “challenge” in sports climbing. “With bouldering, I couldn't climb as I expected because I lacked concentration. I was in a state of being able to climb the 4th assignment, so I was able to cheer customers up and cheer me up. I looked back on the reason why I climbed all four walls.
And for the finals, he said, “I want to concentrate only on my best condition in all events without worrying about other players.”
Mori "I still don't feel it"
Aki Mori Mori, who was able to climb the final lead and proceed to the final, said, “I still don't feel that I have advanced to the final. When I finished the speed and bouldering. I knew that I couldn't go to the final if I didn't take the first place in the lead, so I thought I shouldn't be too daunted, but I was aiming for a complete climb from the beginning. ”
After that, “I had to give up in the middle if I didn't proceed to the final, and I felt relaxed once, so I had to reinforce my concentration. Tomorrow, I told myself that I went to the final” I want to improve my concentration and get to the final in good condition. "
Ito "Enjoy as a Challenger"
Ito Futaba made a strong start with 8 seconds 917, his personal best at the first speed, and made a good start with 4th place. The next bouldering was the second kind of climbing all four walls to the end and finishing 5th. Marked a high ranking in, and advanced to the final in the sixth place overall.
Ito was relieved that “I was relieved to proceed to the final”.
“I was quite nervous, but I was really looking forward to the final. I was thrilled” about the fact that there were many smiles from the beginning of the competition.
For the final, "I think it will be better if you take a good position in bouldering and speed and do your best in the last lead. The pressure is less than other players, so I want to enjoy it as a challenger." I vowed to face it without hesitation.
Nonaka: I'm really glad I didn't give up
Nonaka Imoe was ranked 9th in terms of total points, but Nonaka was ranked 8th in the top of the 3rd category and advanced to the final in the last minute.
Nonaka's left shoulder during the tournament deteriorated during the tournament, and his physical condition continued to be perfect.
On the 18th, the first event failed at the first stage at the speed of the first event, and the second time that came in the second situation, marked the time of the 8 seconds that will be the fifth place overall, and so on at the last minute .
Nonaka said, “This tournament has been advanced to the next round in the last minute. It ’s really hard to reach the final in the last round and I really did n’t give up. Did.
The scene of the second time of the speed was “I was quite impatient without leaving the first time. However, I had to do it so far. I was seriously restrained that I might make a mistake.” It was.
Towards the final, he said, “I will not fall anymore because I have passed 8th place. I just want to do everything I can do by looking at the top. I want to aim for a high ranking with my own speed and bouldering.”