Sports climbing girl Noguchi intends to retire at the Tokyo Olympics August 10 21:15

Leading athletes held a press conference before the World Championship of Sport Climbing for the Tokyo Olympics started in Hachioji, Tokyo from the 11th, and Japanese female guru Keiyo Noguchi will be in Tokyo next year. The intention to retire from the Olympics was revealed.

This world championship is the first competition to compete in the Tokyo Olympics for sports climbing, and the top Japanese athletes who are ranked within the seventh place in the event held at the Olympics will be selected as the representative.

A leading player had a press conference before the opening of the 11th, and among them, the first Japanese girl, Noguchi, who was 30 years old, said, “Since the 2016 Olympic Games were decided to carry out sports climbing, I wanted to make it the last tournament of the competition, "he said, and revealed his intention to retire from active duty at the end of the Tokyo Olympics.

After that, he said, “I want to compile the World Championship since this Hachioji tournament will be the last. I want to compete up to the Olympics one year after winning the Olympics,” he said.

In addition, the Japanese boy's ace who won the second consecutive victory in the composite Japan Cup, Chia Kashiwazaki, said, “The rule is that the top of the Japanese player will be the Olympic national team, but I am aiming for the best in the world.” Said.

The tournament will be held in Hachioji, Tokyo from 11th to 21st, and after competing for victory in various aspects of bouldering, reed, and speed, a complex with the right to participate in the Olympics will be held from 18th to 21st.

What is a composite?

The Tokyo Olympics sports climbing is only combined, and the third is raced in the order of speed, bouldering, and lead to compete for overall results.

The ranking is determined by multiplying the numbers of the rankings of each of the three categories as points, and the player with the least total is ranked higher.

For example, a player who was 1st in speed, 2nd in bouldering and 3rd in lead would have a total point of “6”.

If the total points are the same, the ranking of each event is compared, and the player with the highest number of events comes up.

Representative selection process

The maximum number of entries for each country / region of the Tokyo Olympic Games for sports climbing is “2” for both men and women.

In Japan, last year's World Championship was a combination of 3 men, 2 women and 2 men and women who were in the 6th place.

The Tokyo Olympics will only be held for a combination of three results, speed, bouldering and lead, with 20 men and women participating.

The Japan Mountains and Sports Climbing Association has decided that the top athletes of the top 7 in the World Championship will be selected as the Olympic representative.

If no one within the 7th place, then the top of the Japanese team in the 6th place in the Olympic qualifiers to be held in France from November, or the Asian championship to be held in Morioka City from April next year. The person will be selected as the representative.

The second player will be selected from the 7th place in the world championship, the 6th place in the Olympic qualifiers, and the winner of the Asian championship. When the Asian championship is over, it will be automatically determined if there is only one target. .

If there are two or more candidates, it will be decided that the top player will be selected as the representative at the Japan Cup, which will be held in May next year.

Regarding the selection policy to carry over the second representative appointment until next year, the executive of the Japanese association said, “There is a possibility that players will grow in the short term over the next year, and the second one wants to select a good player just before the Olympics. "