"Here the atmosphere is good. Me, I make even the lame dance," jokes Sonia Isabel Aguilar, who waltzes at 75 years old her skirt with fabric printed with flowers.

After 14 months of "war" against the "maras", these criminal gangs that have reigned terror in the country, Salvadorans enthusiastically find the pleasure of ringing in the street.

Onlookers encourage with coins the musicians of the group Cuscatlan who distill the popular tunes delighting Yajaira. "I have music in my blood," says the septuagenarian for whom dancing makes "forget the sorrows": eleven years ago her son Carlos Antonio Cornejo aged 31 was killed, probably by "mareros", leaving behind a little orphan, now 15 years old.

Since the parliament, controlled by supporters of President Nayib Bukele, approved the state of emergency in March 2022, nearly 69,000 alleged members of the "maras" have been arrested, without warrants, and thrown into prison.

Suspected members of criminal gangs in El Salvador, the "maras", on March 15, 2023 in a prison in the country © - / EL SALVADOR'S PRESIDENCY PRESS OFFICE/AFP/Archives

After the civil war that ravaged El Salvador from 1980 to 1992, the "maras" took over the country. The authorities estimate that they committed 12,000 murders, about 45,000 more than during the armed conflict.

"The center is reborn"

It is not surprising that, despite criticism from human rights NGOs and the Catholic Church about the expeditious nature of the method used, 9 out of 10 Salvadorans approve of the merciless "war" against the crime declared by President Bukele.

Salvadorans had become accustomed to living barricaded in their homes at nightfall: until recently, people risked their lives by venturing from one territory controlled by one gang to another.

The dancers are back in San Salvador's Freedom Square, recaptured from criminal gangs, May 12, 2023 © MARVIN RECINOS / AFP

This was the case of the Freedom Square of San Salvador. Enclosed by the galleries of majestic buildings, control of this square in the historic center of the capital was disputed by the Mara Salvatrucha and Barrio 18: the two most feared criminal gangs in the country reigned terror by racketeering traders... And of course, there was no question of dancing there.

Now, they are a hundred to dance to the rhythm of the flonflons distilled by the Cuscatlan orchestra while Salvadorans and tourists invest the bars that surround the square and its surroundings.

A man wearing a lou takes part in the festivities at Freedom Square in San Salvador, May 12, 2023 © MARVIN RECINOS / AFP

"The historic centre is reborn. It is now one of the safest places in the country," said Salvadoran mayor Mario Duran. Before, "it was the most dangerous place. It was (an area) red of red," he told local television recently.

While the state waged war against the "maras", the municipal authorities also evicted some 3,500 street vendors who clogged the sidewalks of the city center.

"There is more security. We can now come and sit in the public gardens," confirms Teresa Belloso, 66, who is waiting for a rider to start dancing.

© 2023 AFP