Europe: the convoluted case of cider

Emmanuelle Ducros 08:45, May 18, 2023

The European Commission wants to harmonise the rules for marketing cider between the 27 countries of the Union. It sounds very simple but it's an incredible puzzle and French producers are worried. Emmanuel Macron tells us about this storm in a bowl of cider.

As crazy as it may sound to us, there is no common definition in Europe of what cider is. And it is for this reason – and in particular to establish a common tax base – that Europe is interested in it. We must harmonize, or at least try.

And there, the difficulties begin. Cider as we know it is far from being a shared product.

This is very obvious to us French. We have had a precise definition since 1953: cider is an alcoholic beverage that comes from the fermentation of fresh pressed fruit musts. Apples, possibly a little pears. This definition is shared by the Spaniards. Sidra is exactly the same thing and it is also regulated by law.

In Germany, there is a definition for this product, but it is called Apfelwein, apple wine. The Cider exists, but it is a false friend: It can contain apple, but also something other than apple.

And then, in the rest of Europe, which is called Cider, it's a bit lucky.

In most countries, there is no definition of what cider is. It simply falls into a customs category, alcoholic sparkling drink with apple. That's the only thing we're sure of. There's apple.

In many cases, such as Ireland, or in the Nordic countries, it is more an apple beer, brewed. The fruit content is very variable, from 5% to 80%. It can be concentrated apple juice, not fresh apple, and there can be sugar, red fruits. Cider is often sold on tap, in pubs. Not much to do with our bottled cider.

Great concern for French cider producers.

Nervous breakdown, as we say nowadays. They are nearly 600, including 500 very small and some cooperatives, turnover 250 million euros. They fear that in the future we could sell massively in France a product called "Cider", but which would cost much less to produce. A competition that would leave them scattered in small pieces like a puzzle

But the danger is also patrimonial. Cider apple trees are a variety apart, small apples, not very pretty, acidic or sour, untreated and difficult to sell to chew. There are 12,000 producers in France. Sometimes, for small amounts, it is supplementary farm income. A destabilized cider market, it is apple trees that are being uprooted, while our orchard is already shrinking. Landscapes of Normandy or Brittany upset. And other productions in danger, because made with the same apples: pommeau and calvados. All this for a word that we understand differently on the same continent. As they say in the Tontons flingueurs: Must admit, It's brutal.