This great show, with 59 parades and more than 70 presentations punctuated by 29 cultural and social events, will begin on Wednesday with the great parades of Fendi, Roberto Cavalli and Etro.

Fendi presented an autumn-winter 2023-2024 collection that plays with the antagonisms between punk and great rigor.

Cuts borrowed from the wardrobe of male tailors and traditional fabrics are twisted into feminine shapes, while elements of utilitarianism appear everywhere: coveralls, aprons, uniforms.

The lace is lacquered and layered;

flashes of fetishism appear through lingerie briefs or lace-up thigh-high boots.

In a punk reinterpretation, the knits are cut or slightly distorted.

Felted wools are deliberately shrunk, ribbed knits left unbuttoned or worn askew.

"It's deconstructed, but luxurious. There's a little nod to punk, and my admiration for DIY (do it yourself, editor's note), but I've evolved towards something chic", explains Kim Jones , the artistic director of women's fashion at Fendi.

Kim Jones, artistic director of women's fashion at Fendi, at the fall-winter 2023-2024 show in Milan, February 22, 2023 © Miguel MEDINA / AFP

On the sidelines of the parades, the openings of exhibitions will punctuate the Milanese evenings, such as that of the American videographer Bill Viola at the Palazzo Reale or the French photographer Guy Bourdin at the Silos Armani.

Kim Kardashian is expected for an evening event organized by Dolce & Gabbana to celebrate the Ciao Kim exhibition, entirely dedicated to the businesswoman and media icon, whose presence will however only be confirmed at the last minute.

On Thursday, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons will unveil their new collection for Prada at the headquarters of the Milanese house's foundation, then follow MM6 Maison Margiela, Emporio Armani at the theater of its headquarters, and finally Moschino.

Friday Tod's will open the dance at Hangar Bicocca then Gucci and Jil Sander.

Saturday, we expect Dolce & Gabbana, Ferragamo, Missoni, Bottega Veneta.

Sunday, Giorgio Armani will close the high mass.

Despite the conflict in Ukraine and a context undermined by the energy crisis, the major luxury groups have announced record results for the year 2022.

LVMH – which owns the Italian houses Fendi, Bulgari and Loro Piana – achieved sales of 79.2 billion euros in 2022, up 23% over one year.

Same story at Kering, which announced a net profit up 14% to 3.6 billion in 2022.

Forecasts exceeded

The Italian fashion figures presented by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana for 2022 confirm the trend: the national industry has resisted the negative pressures of the economy.

Fourth-quarter data confirmed a positive trend, bringing the sector's 2022 revenue to 98.3 billion, up 18% year-on-year.

The post-Covid recovery had already started in 2021 when turnover had increased by more than 20% compared to the depressed levels of the worst moment of the pandemic crisis.

2023 opened with cautious optimism on lower gas prices and positive expectations for lower inflation, but supply chain companies are still feeling the brunt of absorbing the price increases to avoid dumping them on the end consumer.

"Faced with a 7.1% increase in prices within the supply chain, the prices charged to consumers only increased by 1.5%", specified Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera nazionale della moda. during the fashion week presentation press conference.

The sector's turnover should therefore grow by 4% against +18% in 2022.

© 2023 AFP