This London fashion week is dedicated to Vivienne Westwood, dean of British fashion who died in December at the age of 81.

Already Thursday, a host of stars, ranging from Kate Moss to Victoria Beckham via the famous editor-in-chief of the American edition of Vogue Anna Wintour, paid tribute to him at Southwark Cathedral in London.

British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood (centre) at the opening of her boutique in Beirut on October 8, 2009 © / Patchwork Events/AFP/Archives

"She leaves a huge legacy... It's hard to believe she's no longer with us," Caroline Rush, chairwoman of the British Fashion Council, told AFP.

"But I think in a way her spirit still lives on through the creativity of the many young designers she inspired," she added.

For five days, 47 parades are planned and it is the veteran Paul Costelloe, long time fetish designer of Princess Diana who was to open the ball on Friday.

After several editions disrupted by the Covid pandemic, then by the death of Queen Elizabeth II on September 8, "it's a great relief to be able to organize London Fashion Week again", rejoiced Caroline Rush.

Ahead of its show scheduled for Monday, fashionistas have already had a taste of the first collection for Burberry by Daniel Lee, who left for Bottega Veneta and who succeeded Riccardo Tisci in the British brand in October 2022.

A "teaser" filmed in Trafalgar Square and on Albert Bridge in London, broadcast in early February, unveiled a cast of British talents, such as Lennon Gallagher, Raheem Sterling, Liberty Ross, rapper Shygirl and Vanessa Redgrave, alongside the South Korean actress Jun Ji-hyun.

Iconic logo back

Observers saw it as a clear intention by Lee to re-emphasize Burberry's British roots.

The historic rider logo has also made a comeback, after being discontinued by Tisci in 2018.

Another expected moment of this Fall/Winter 2023 Fashion Week, the new Moncler Genius collection, also on Monday.

The luxury down jacket manufacturer will present pieces from collaborations with famous designers.

A customer leaves a Burberry store with a bag bearing the brand's logo, in London on September 11, 2012 © WILL OLIVER / AFP/Archives

It promises a "large-scale live show" that is meant to be "beyond fashion", according to the brand.

The parades of SS Daley, winner last year of the coveted LVMH prize, and JW Anderson are also part of the essentials of this edition.

Once again, London will not deviate from its reputation for showcasing a number of young talents.

Newcomers to the fashion world, such as Perted'Ego, Sinead Gorey, Tove and Talia Byre, are part of the program which incorporates hybrid shows, i.e. both physical and/or visible on the Internet. .

Finally, this fashion week also hosts Ukrainian Fashion Week in exile due to the invasion of the country by Russia.

Three Ukrainian fashion designers - Frolov, Kseniaschnaider and Paskal - will take part in this initiative.

© 2023 AFP