[Taste of China] Taiwan pickled cabbage and white meat pot: "Paper" improvement strings together foreign land and hometown

　　China News Agency, Beijing, February 9th, title: Taiwan pickled cabbage and white meat pot: "The Paper" improvement strings together the hometown and the hometown

　　China News Agency reporter Yang Chengchen

　　Hot pot around the stove is the best choice for many Taiwanese families for New Year's Eve dinner.

Among the different pot varieties in the north and south, the pickled cabbage and white meat pot from the northeast of the mainland is very popular.

　　"The pickled cabbage and white meat pot comes from the north, but it fits the taste of Taiwanese." Taiwanese food and tourism writer Han Liangyi told the reporter of China News Agency that Taiwan in the 1950s had a large agricultural population, and both cabbage and pork were easily available to ordinary people. The ingredients, plus the natural acceptance of pickled sauerkraut by Hokkien and Hakka people, the "sourness" of this pot of food is embedded in the taste that Taiwanese people love in their genes.

　　Taipower Lijin Restaurant located in Section 1 of Heping East Road in Taipei City is the No. 1 sauerkraut and white meat pot in Taipei in the hearts of many gourmets. In the peak winter season, you have to queue for several hours to enter the restaurant.

The small door face, the signboard with red letters on a white background, and the bungalows in the depths of the courtyard are full of seats. A red couplet in the center reads: "A love that has been passed down for three generations is more than half of a century-old career."

　　This "kitchen" hidden in a deep alley is the "legacy" left by Sun Yunxuan, the former head of Taiwan's administrative authority, to Taiwanese gourmets.

This old man was an important "driver" of Taiwan's economic development in the 1960s and 1970s. Because of his years of living in the Northeast, he never forgot the authentic sauerkraut and white meat pot.

　　In the 1960s, when he was the general manager of Taipower, he recruited his classmates from Harbin Institute of Technology to open the Northeast Hot Pot Hometown Cuisine Restaurant. After several changes of name, it has been in business for more than half a century.

Ms. Ye Yumei, the current owner, said that when serving dishes, the restaurant will introduce the "classic eating method" to customers: put sauerkraut and tofu in the pot first, wait until the broth boils, put white meat first, then beef and mutton, and finally cook other dishes.

　　Sauerkraut and white meat crossed the sea. At first, it used Northeast Chinese cabbage, but due to insufficient supply, it was replaced by "cabbage" (kale), which is often eaten by Taiwanese.

　　Li Naimiao, a scholar at the Chinese Culture University in Taiwan, recalled that his grandfather only bought Lishan Chinese cabbage when he was alive. It becomes more juicy and sweet."

Mr. Tang Lusun also mentioned in the article "Eating Hot Pot Around the Stove" that the sauerkraut pickled from Kinmen and Lishan Chinese cabbage is "clear in color and has the same aromatic flavor" as the mainland sauerkraut.

　　Some people who have tasted sauerkraut and white meat pot found that the Taiwanese version is more like a hot pot. The pork belly can be boiled and eaten, and the soup pot can also be added with sea prawns.

Han Liangyi said that Taiwanese like to add various ingredients to the pot. In Hokkien dialect, it is called "Pai", which means that the dishes are rich and lively.

"From the sauerkraut and white meat pot, we can see the diversified absorption of Taiwanese people's diet."

　　Sauerkraut Pork Pork is also director Ang Lee's favorite.

When he was filming "Life of Pi" in Taichung, he often went to the sauerkraut and white meat pot shop to warm his stomach and refresh himself.

Many Taiwanese gourmet bloggers and media went to Taichung to explore restaurants, looking for memories of Ang Lee's taste buds.

The owner of the shop nicknamed "Old Uncle" is from Shenyang, and his "unique skills" of sauerkraut have captured the hearts of Taiwanese diners.

　　The fire is booming, and a pot of "surging" and improved food connects new friends and old friends, the present and childhood, and the hometown and hometown.

"Children in Taiwan feel the atmosphere of the New Year by the stove since they were young, and when they reach middle age, they will pass on these customs to their children and nephews." As Han Liangyi said, sitting around the stove, the memory will flourish through cooking The steaming and condensation of the steaming pot has affected the thoughts of generations.

(over)