Following in the footsteps of Dior, whose designer Maria Grazia Chiuri on Monday honored Joséphine Baker and the Roaring Twenties, "the most beautiful for fashion", Julien Fournié also drew on this era, simplifying the silhouette in a collection "lighter, more caressing, less close to the body".

An oversized white trouser suit embroidered with gold thread and ribbons worn as a headband over loose hair, at the opening of the show, sum up his spirit.

Fashion show Julien Fournié, January 24, 2023 in Paris © JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP

The necklines and armholes evoke the tank top, the little jersey dresses are a "nod to (the designer) Madeleine Vionnet", a fully embroidered swimsuit is an evening outfit.

“The idea is to wear it with a lot of freedom and a lot of … nudity, to reclaim the body bruised by the Covid”, explains the couturier.

Haute couture show by Julien Fournié in Paris, January 24, 2023 © JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP

"Even my wealthy clients, those who do yoga, want to find meaning in their lives. They want fewer constraints. Having too much hair, too much makeup, no longer makes them laugh. They want: + I get out of bed, I'm at the top +”, he adds.

Model making challenge

This seems to inaugurate a new movement of the fashion pendulum, as good heiress of Marie-Antoinette "who takes off her corsets to go and play the shepherdess and smoke firecrackers", in the words of the designer.

Or Joséphine de Beauharnais, "who went to the opera in the middle of winter in transparent things. Everyone caught chest colds but it was feminine freedom".

Despite the apparent simplification, this new line is "a real modeling challenge" because we had to think about the counterbalance of the dresses.

Couturier Julien Fournié and his models at the end of his haute couture show, January 24, 2023 in Paris © JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP

The waist is raised a little "to give the leg" and refine the silhouette, we lower the chest darts and the relationship between the armhole and the waist and we draw a less tight armhole.

"It silhouettes in a new way" and compensates for the lack of support by the bra, underlines the designer.

In a light blue dress, the "1930s" effect is obtained thanks to the counterbalance under the weight of the embroidery of a piece of fabric brought from the front to the back.

"It's a mystery dress and we don't know how it works. These new structures, we can only do them in haute couture", describes Julien Fournié.

Haute couture show by Julien Fournié in Paris, January 24, 2023 © JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP

The boleros bring a very loose sleeve and "hide the arm", but the whole "remains sexy".

Pale pink, orange, purplish night: the colors of the dresses and the embroidery made by the Indian workshop Shanagar evoke sunsets and sunrises outdoors.

© 2023 AFP