The "long leg" embodied in particular by the "chic version of jogging" is the flagship silhouette of the fall-winter 2023 collection, presented on Saturday at the Unesco house in Paris, in a very bright staging with mirrors.

"He's going straight, he feels good, he's optimistic," summarized Véronique Nichanian, stylist for the men's collections of the French luxury house, behind the scenes.

The designer brings "poetic" touches to this wardrobe, such as embroidery on the leather evoking the gesture of patching up a "clothing that we love and do not want to throw away" or in patchwork patterns of sweaters as if we had tried several times and hesitated to choose.

Hermès fashion show in Paris, January 21, 2023 © Emmanuel DUNAND / AFP

"It's winter" and the neck is well covered with turtlenecks or double collars that can be buttoned or unbuttoned, which brings tonicity to the silhouette.

Anthracite, caramel, coffee, navy, ivory or black: the palette that is usually lively and fresh at Hermès men is on the other hand "deaf".

Hermès fashion show in Paris, January 21, 2023 © Emmanuel DUNAND / AFP

"After a very bright summer, there are very dark colors, this enriches the proportions and the materials", explained the designer.

"For me since confinement, we dress comfortable but we want to be sexy," she said.

The costume is "very flexible, very comfortable" with dropped shoulders or closer to the body.

The jackets have large pockets.

In the evening, "we are a bit dandy, with jewelry, earrings, I think it's quite sexy on boys," says the designer.

Hermès fashion show in Paris, January 21, 2023 © Emmanuel DUNAND / AFP

On the shoe side, there are few sneakers, but "they are real boys' shoes, more so than men's shoes", "quite sexy because they are not primed, strong and sturdy", declared to AFP Pierre Hardy, Hermès shoe designer.

The rock jewelry he also designs, "it's part of this boyish, young side, which adapts with clothes".

© 2023 AFP