The collection exuded femininity: model Bella Hadid wore a green dress with an underlined waist, and high black gloves.

His sister Gigi was dressed in a black trouser suit...

The ex-Spice Girl did not come to greet the guests as is customary after the parade which took place at Val-de-Grâce, a former abbey and military hospital that has become a museum.

Dressed in a long, fitted black dress and sock boots that showed off her slenderness, on the arm of husband David Beckham, she stepped out into the yard to pose.

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A rare attitude for Parisian parades where backstage access is reserved for celebrities and the "happy few".

"It's London coming to Paris and it's cool", we could hear as Victoria Beckham posed surrounded by her son Brooklyn and her daughter-in-law Nicola Peltz.

In a low-cut black dress decorated with lace and sneakers, Harper, the daughter of Victoria and David, joined them.

A woman who talks to women

On the catwalk, ultra-femininity was in order: stiletto heels, cutouts, transparencies, tight dresses, all presented by very thin models like the 48-year-old stylist, to 30 million subscribers on Instagram and who promotes on Tik Tok his diet based on steamed fish and vegetables.

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Pink, blue, mauve and lilac: the spring colors are added to the black dear to the designer.

Launched in 2008, the Victoria Beckham brand has paraded in New York and London and gone on hiatus for two years.

Admittedly, the experience of Fashion Weeks "with a more commercial connotation" in New York and London "counts", but it is that of Paris, the most prominent, "which validates brands which have a real creative identity", considers Benjamin Simmenauer, professor at the French Fashion Institute.

It is in Paris that the great Japanese houses have been parading for decades, but also the British like Vivienne Westwood or Stella McCartney.

Paris Fashion Week recently poached promising Craig Green, who returned to the catwalks in Paris in June for menswear after starting to parade in Paris before the health crisis.

French heavyweights

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For Victoria Beckham, parading in Paris means entering "the big leagues", Ralph Toledano, chairman of the board of directors of Victoria Beckham LTD and former president of the Fédération de la haute couture et de la mode, told AFP. .

"She is a woman who speaks to women with clothes that are at the same time creative and desirable and reflect Victoria", who embodies an "active woman", a style "sexy, elegant and subtle, with a touch of British “, he enumerates.

Appreciated by specialists since its creation, the house has experienced financial worries, but the situation is changing since the arrival of Frenchmen Ralph Toledano and Marie Leblanc de Reynies, previously responsible for purchasing at the Parisian department store Printemps, as CEO. .

In four years, the house has been reorganized: the two ready-to-wear lines have merged, with a new positioning in terms of price, the lines of accessories and beauty products have been developed as well as VB Body, a line of crop tops and figure-hugging dresses in knitted jersey.

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“We come a long way financially,” says Ralph Toledano, but “we are ready” for the Parisian adventure.

© 2022 AFP