With his balaclava and futuristic rain boots, the Givenchy man faces the elements in complete relaxation: he walks in the water on a graphic white podium in the courtyard of the Ecole Militaire, 18th century buildings a stone's throw from Eiffel Tower.

But the rigor of the place managed by the gendarmerie did not prevent the non-regulatory looks: shirtless, contrasting underwear above the belt and sensual cutouts in the back.

The pants of the almost classic suits, black and beige, have a cutout at the knee, like jeans with holes.

Tell a story

The palette is sober - white, grey, black, the fluo pink and green colors are reserved for sportswear sets.

Since the appointment in 2020 of the American, one of the kings of streetwear as artistic director of the French label to replace the British Clare Waight Keller, Givenchy has abandoned haute couture, which made its reputation.

Previous Matthew Williams collections shown virtually and on runway have all been mixed.

Givenchy fashion show in Paris, June 22, 2022 JULIEN DE ROSA AFP

This show, one of the most anticipated of this Men's Ready-to-Wear Week, until Sunday, shines a spotlight on the importance and diversity of men's fashion once considered fashion's little sister. feminine.

"It's good to give space to men and women, to each and everyone their platform to tell a story," said Matthew Williams quoted Wednesday by the American fashion bible WWD.

“There is more room for more looks”.

Bare back and English embroidery

At Bianca Saunders, who draws on tailoring know-how to better revisit it, the masculine silhouettes are softened by the cut and the choice of materials.

Its models wear fluid satin pajama-style sets in beige, rust or scarlet red or in mesh offering sensual drapes accessorized with mini handbags.

Givenchy fashion show in Paris, June 22, 2022 JULIEN DE ROSA AFP

The asymmetrical and plunging cut of the tank top emphasizes the line of the blow.

Oversize bombers are shorter behind, the lines are rounded.

At less than 30 years old, Bianca Saunders, winner of the Andam 2021 prize who had consecrated Martin Margiela and Anthony Vaccarello (Saint Laurent) in the past, is one of the rare women designers of men's fashion who are working to make it less rigid.

The Israeli Hed Mayner, whose trademark is the nomadic and protective silhouette, cuts this season the fabric of the back of parkas, jackets or coats revealing a bare back.

A double-breasted blazer is made like an apron.

"It's something direct and obvious in front and decadent behind," he wrote in the show's note of intent.

The abundance of English embroidery is explained by the origin of the materials.

These are antique linens found at flea markets in Tel Aviv.

"It's not something feminine, or even poetic, it refers to a feeling of being wrapped in clean sheets early in the morning".

© 2022 AFP