Models walked in the water on a graphic white podium in the courtyard of the Ecole Militaire, 18th century buildings a stone's throw from the Eiffel Tower.

The rigor of the place managed by the gendarmerie did not prevent the non-regulatory or even sexy looks: bare chest, contrasting underwear above the waistband of the pants and sensual cutouts in the back.

Givenchy show in Paris, June 22, 2022 JULIEN DE ROSA AFP

The pants of the almost classic suits, black and beige, have a cutout at the knee like jeans with holes.

The palette is sober - white, grey, black, the fluo pink and green colors are reserved for sportswear sets.

Since the appointment in 2020 of the American, one of the kings of streetwear as artistic director of the French label to replace the British Clare Waight Keller, Givenchy has abandoned haute couture, which made its reputation.

The artistic director of Givenchy, Matthew Williams in Paris, June 22, 2022 JULIEN DE ROSA AFP

Previous Matthew Williams collections shown virtually and on runway have all been mixed.

The show, one of the most anticipated of this Men's Fashion Week, which runs until Sunday, shines a spotlight on the importance of men's fashion once considered the little sister of women's fashion.

Givenchy show in Paris, June 22, 2022 JULIEN DE ROSA AFP

"It's good to give space to men and women, to each and everyone their platform to tell a story," said Matthew Williams quoted Wednesday by the American fashion bible WWD.

"There's more room for more looks," he concluded.

According to Givenchy chief executive Renaud de Lesquen, quoted by WWD, demand for menswear "has grown steadily over the past two years and continues to accelerate."

© 2022 AFP