"I sell mainly in Europe, especially in Romania", explains to AFP this agronomist by training, aged 71, far from the old Russian tropism which characterized the former Soviet Republic.

He began to market his cuvée four years ago in the hope of bringing back his sons who went abroad when he himself bows out.

The man with piercing blue eyes, whose wife was born in a camp in Siberia where his parents had been deported, is used to geopolitical upheavals, on this depopulated land of barely 2.6 million inhabitants tossed about by the 'Story.

And like the other professionals in this sector which is the pride of Moldova, barely as big as Belgium but among the 20 largest producers in the world thanks to a favorable climate, Mr. Tronciu has taken care to develop trade links with the European Union (EU).

A strategy that now makes it possible to mitigate the impact of the conflict for this country, which is one of the poorest on the continent.

"Traditionally, we were focused on Russia", but "prices are lower there" while the EU "focuses on quality", he underlines.

"The future is in Europe."

The successive Russian embargoes over the past two decades, in retaliation for the decision of the Moldovan authorities to move closer to the EU, have pushed winegrowers to change their minds.

Nicolae Tronciu in front of the bottles of his vintage, April 30, 2022 in Pereni, Moldova Daniel MIHAILESCU AFP

Brussels was able to accelerate this movement by lifting customs duties, then by sealing in 2014 with Chisinau a bilateral free trade agreement for wine products.

"Freedom Blend"

The transformation has been radical: in 2021, Russia represented only 10% of Moldovan wine exports (8.63 million liters) according to figures from the Ministry of Agriculture, compared to more than 80% in the early 2000s. .

At the same time, Moldova delivered more than 120 million liters to European countries last year, and won medals in international competitions.

Bottles of Nicolae Tronciu's vintage, April 30, 2022 in Pereni, Moldova Daniel MIHAILESCU AFP

"Before the 2006 embargo, the country did not know the term + market diversification +".

Today, it exports nearly 68 million bottles each year to more than 70 countries," said Sergiu Gherciu, Secretary of State for Agriculture, in a statement sent to AFP.

For the prestigious Château Purcari, which dominates the market, this shift was accompanied by political positions against Russian influence.

"In 2014, we designed our cuvée +Freedom Blend+ (the blend of freedom, editor's note), from Saperavi, Bastardo and Rara Neagra, three indigenous grape varieties from Georgia, Ukraine and Moldova", says Eugen Comendant, director of operations.

"This wine is a symbol of these countries which are de facto fighting for their freedom", he insists.

The group listed on the Bucharest Stock Exchange has also stood out for its actions in favor of Ukrainian refugees, from free reception in guest rooms to advertising messages against the war.

Doubling of charges

Regarding the effect of the conflict on activity, Mr. Comendant also notes "an impact close to zero" due to the weakness of transactions with Russia.

In contrast, the Ukrainian market, which was booming and accounted for 4% of the company's sales, collapsed.

Another element, "the blocking of the port of Odessa (south) has caused major logistical problems and complicates our exports to Asia", he laments.

The vines of Nicolae Tronciu, April 30, 2022 in Pereni, Moldova Daniel MIHAILESCU AFP

If the traffic is now diverted to the port of Constanta in Romania, bottles worth 750,000 euros are still blocked in the Ukrainian port, the Moldovan government recently indicated.

But the main challenge lies in the increase in production costs, which should soar by 50% this year according to Sergiu Gherciu.

"Our expenses have doubled due to the increase in the prices of energy, pesticides and fertilizers and it has also become difficult, for example, to find steel trellising cables, the prices of which have tripled", confirms Nicolae Tronciu.

He also regrets that his estate is deserted by tourists, whom he used to welcome with a bottle of his own.

“Most of them were Russian or Ukrainian, you understand,” he confides, while his small tasting room at the foot of the vines remains desperately empty.

© 2022 AFP