In 1925, when
Pedro de Répide
described it, Calle de Malasaña was already called that, although the City Council had not yet added the proper name that it holds today and which completes it:
Calle de Manuela Malasaña
.
And the personality of the Madrid woman assassinated by the French invader already made her stand out from neighboring streets with more neutral names.
Of course, on the eve
of March 8
, no woman from Madrid would have a fairer place on this page.
Curiously, that name did not become the name of all that classic and today famous neighborhood until much later.
The journalists of the
Informaciones
newspaper -the lonely pro-democratic voice of late Francoism after the closure of
Madrid-
who were already working in the area in 1970, on San Roque street, never called it, nor did they hear the neighbors call it, "Malasaña".
Its official name was still the Maravillas neighborhood
.
First curious fact, then: Malasaña Street did not dominate the entire neighborhood in 1925 or in 1970.
The neighborhood now renamed is a product of the Madrid Movida
of 1980, when Enrique Tierno Galván - «get high and go!» - was the vigorously party mayor of Madrid, and from Malasaña street came an impulse of revelry and also of culture very typical of that time.
The legend speaks of a sparkler -popular name of the traditional Madrid residents of that neighborhood of Maravillas- fighting against the French on May 2, 1808, to whom his daughter helped by giving him cartridges when a bullet ended the life of the girl.
Répide specified: «History makes the legend disappear», and added: «
On the Dos de Mayo the daughter of Malasaña existed, and she was a victim of the French
, but not as the legend reflects.
Manuela Malasaña y Oñoro, fatherless at the time, was
an embroiderer girl
, who lived at number 18 Calle de San Andrés.
(...) The girl was coming from her work and she was on her way to her house when she was stopped and searched by the Napoleonic soldiers, who found some small scissors of her trade.
The cruel faction of Murat, which punished all possession of weapons, considering as such even a few knives or scissors no matter how small, had to be enough for the unhappy embroiderer to be shot».
The innocent civilians murdered by an invading army, true unfortunate heroes from 1808 to 2022, just when the same thing is happening a few thousand kilometers east of Madrid.
very
sad
From Wonders to Ethiopian restaurants
Répide's narration includes a mention of the cultural history of that street, still called Peninsular at the end of the 19th century when it housed the editorial office of the
Madrid Cómica
magazine , and as Malasaña saw the construction of the
Madrid-Cinema
, one of the first cinemas in the city, also the theater where
the great French tragic actress Sarah Bernhardt
performed for the last time in our capital three years before her death, later renamed
Teatro Maravillas
.
The Maravillas, which happily revived after six years of closure at the beginning of this century, continues to be the cultural reference of this street that joins Fuencarral and San Bernardo just one block away from the boulevards.
In the enlarged neighborhood that today has adopted its name there are other important ones, such as Lara.
Maravillas continues to be an essential theatrical point of reference
, and in its theater there coexist, depending on the day and time, up to five shows currently headed by the comedy
Burundanga
, no less than 11 seasons on the bill.
The shows and the drinks made this little street famous, not to mention the appearance of the Movida, and those shows with drinks have a historic venue at number 31:
the Diplodocus Rock Bar
, where hard rock is accompanied with its famous Leche de Brontosaurus (gin, rum, vodka, Cointreau, currant, milk, cinnamon and ice),
a cocktail to resurrect Freddie Mercury
, and we see that they have also invented a Mastodon based on champagne (more like cava, we suppose... ), orange liqueur, rum and sprig of mint.
Well, you know.
The eating houses are not lacking on this street, as in the rest of this neighborhood of Madrid, and they give it a lot of life.
Near its beginning in San Bernardo is Bolívar, which came to appear in the Michelin guide
and was among the restaurants of that Madrid gastronomic renewal of a quarter of a century ago, but which no longer maintains that level.
Culinary
originality
is what has resisted in Malasaña street and continues to resist.
Gone is the one that was one of the only two vegetarian restaurants in the city in the 80s, and that then attracted a lot of attention -although not for the excellent quality of its vegetable dishes, if we remember correctly-, but obviously that in this vegan era would already lack the slightest originality.
Instead, it was an almost inexplicable originality from a couple of decades ago that
two restaurants competed a few meters from each other, on each of the sidewalks of Malasaña... Ethiopian
.
La Movida is long gone, but one of those two little African
restaurants
is miraculously still there, offering cuisine that is completely unknown to us.
Her name is
Nuria
, so you know where to go to discover the star dishes of the country that inspired
Bob Marley
and his
reggae
, like sambusa.
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