For six days, the big names in Italian fashion, from Versace to Fendi via Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana were finally able to return to face-to-face shows, put under glass by the Covid-19 pandemic, but this time here under the sluggish winds from Eastern Europe.

Thursday evening, on the first day of the fights, the atmosphere was to say the least offbeat at Moschino, where the models followed one another on the catwalk in sumptuous dresses with accessories such as candlesticks, feather dusters or even lampshades on their heads. .

In velvet and lace mixed with sophisticated embroidery, gold and tulle, the collection signed by designer Jeremy Scott ended in apotheosis when he had barely fallen from the moon, he came to greet the public in an astronaut suit. firecracker red.

XXL shoulders

On Saturday at Dolce & Gabbana, the American actress Sharon Stone was in the front row to admire the inverted triangle silhouettes due to maxi-shoulder pads straight out of the 80s. The coats are oversized and super comfortable, embedding the body in a cocoon futuristic looking.

Against a backdrop reminiscent of a fantastical metaverse, impeccably tailored black jackets gave glimpses of undergarments, and suits with oversized shoulders radiated their flamboyant colors.

As a bonus, some transparent tunics and a black lace corset dress.

American fashion designer Jeremy Scott added a space-age touch when he walked the runway for Moschino, in Milan, Italy, on February 24, 2022 MIGUEL MEDINA AFP/Archives

On Sunday, DSquared2 embarked on a journey to connect the world "with peace and love," according to the parade's press kit.

The tones are decidedly autumnal, rust and mustard, layered with Scottish tartan plaids and accessorized with hats and ponchos, halfway between the Woodstock festival and a meeting of campers in the Andes.

Under the 'bulkier, the better' trend, models sported quilted bags made of synthetic fabric, shod in steroid-boosted boots 'made for smooth treading in unfamiliar terrain'.

Italian craftsmanship

Other bells ringing on Saturday for Alberto Caliri's collections for Missoni, the king of knits, and the highly anticipated debut of Matthieu Blazy as creative director of Bottega Veneta, the Italian Hermès.

The Frenchman has modernized the brand's famous "intreccio", giving it a dynamic movement while not straying too far from this braided leather pattern with an artisanal stamp.

Giorgio Armani added his own touch, during a fashion show in Milan, Italy, on February 27, 2022 MIGUEL MEDINA AFP

"Quiet power": this is how Matthieu Blazy described the spirit of his collection, with superb pieces such as these seven-league boots with a sculptural heel cut from the same piece of leather and without seams, or printed nubuck jeans.

Friday at Missoni, Alberto Caliri unveiled an extraordinarily modern collection, a subtle balance between Milanese elegance and relaxation.

The brand's famous zig-zag pattern was repeated in black, gray and cream on long, narrow coats, with a dash of joie de vivre in lime or orange linings.

A belted coat with vertical orange, mustard, beige and midnight blue stripes covered in sequins captured all eyes.

The knit, inscribed in the DNA of the brand, is all about texture and depth, while the little dresses in printed and fitted lurex are shiny and luminous.

© 2022 AFP