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He says he makes the best carbonara in town. "Peccorino,
guanciale
and parmesan". Fabio Gasparini is a computer scientist who embroiders classic Italian recipes and his business, Il bacaro de Fabio, already has three stores in Madrid.
«Bacaro is the name of the Venetian bars, where I am from
. We have just opened in the Plaza de la Paja. Groups have already started to come. We had outgrown the premises on Hartzenbusch Street and the one in Pozuelo, which opened a month ago. He also defends the pinsas, his pizzas,
“with dough of wheat, rice and soybeans.
It is fermented for 72 hours. If they do not ferment, they make you very thirsty. The yeast continues to work in your stomach. This is what happens with the rest of Italians. In my restaurants, no. They are 80% hydrated ”, he explains.
The pandemic stopped the expansion of the business, which took advantage of the
delivery
to settle the accounts. «We have worked super well with
delivery
. Since April 17, 2020.
Everyone wanted to eat from Bacaro. Then we remove it »
. He opened his first restaurant in September 2019 in Chamberí after browsing his clients' kitchens. He quit his job and came to Spain for love. Although that lasted less than expected, it stayed.
«The girl disappeared and I continued. I've been here for more than 14 years.
I started working at home. I met journalists and the
passaparola
made me popular with them. People were happy. I'd go home, make a menu, cook with the customer's tools, clean up, and leave. The logical thing was to start testing in a local as soon as possible ».
He sent an e-mail to Radio Marca who put it to work.
"It was a joke email," he
remembers.
He described his work as a home cook with reference to the
bon vivant
guide
.
Not that it was a hilarious affair either.
Gasparini was clear about the best way to make himself known.
«It was a joke.
There was nothing serious in my proposal.
Thanks to that they called me, they liked me.
They interviewed me
.
I started bringing them trays of
"
Tiramisu,
" which is served in restaurants in coffee cups with a calm surface that invites you to dip.
As in
The swimmer
, you could go through Madrid swimming through the tiramisu cups of the bacaros.
Clandestine kitchen
As head chef for sports journalists, he kept
a "clandestine kitchen" near Las Ventas, "on the other side of the M-30"
. A garage where he fed a maximum of 14 people, as in some places in Italy where nobody knows what is on the menu because there is no menu. Gasparini cooked
e enough
. «I always had a fondness for cooking. The police never came. It was quiet. It wasn't much of a hassle. Everyone came. Those of El Chiringuito, for example. And Aaron Guerrero, Chechu, who is now my partner ”, who has given the definitive impulse to Gasparini's cooking instinct, transforming private kitchens, garages and fans into the Italian side of the Mimosa group. "The local de la Latina is in front of La malaje." Talk about what was the Cossack, a classic of Russian hospitality in the city. 45 years later, it is another of the Italian gastronomic laboratories in Madrid.
«Our terrace is very inviting. It was an occasion that we could not pass up ».
It does not have too many dishes on the menu.
"The meaning is short menu and
top
plate
."
He describes the sardine al saor or
carpaccio
as if he were talking about Mbappé.
Gasparini bets on the classic.
A certain purity of
l'Italia
lost in some kitchens.
«
For an Italian it is more difficult to do it wrong than to do it right if you don't go overboard
.
If you are Italian and you cook well ... Why do different things?
It's no use.
People look for the product and the execution of the dish and we have it.
It is the best way to compete to overcome the number of Italian restaurants that exist in Madrid. ", He clarifies.
-Why do customers repeat?
-They want what I just told you, nothing more and nothing less.
And the tiramisu.
DNA
He is the favorite Italian of sports journalists l The third place has just opened with Aarón Guerrero as a partner l "Short menu and top plate" l You have to order the carbonara and tiramisu
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
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