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Labeling his nougat "the most expensive in the world" was a
great idea from Juan Antonio Sirvent.
The Alicante businessman came to that conclusion after doing the math and verifying that his
1880 nougat
hardly paid off if he added up what the almond and honey and labor cost him. It was the post-war years and the Spanish were not in for parties, but he decided to continue
betting on quality
.
His idea was embodied in the
well-known slogan
during a trip to Paris, when a clerk on the Champs Elysees convinced him to
take the most expensive silk tie in the store
. "A man like you deserves a unique tie," he said, and Sirvent took it away. "My grandfather was a gourmet and he liked to dress well.
He paid a fortune for the tie
, 'the most expensive in the world', he used to say, and there he reinforced his idea of exclusivity. The slogan was a success," recalls
José Manuel Sirvent ,
his grandson and ninth generation of the nougat family.
In addition to 1880, which owes its name to the year in which the recipe was written down, its
boixet,
-the machine invented to make Jijona nougat- also comes out
El Lobo tablets, almost as famous for their
jingle
( What a great nougat, what a great nougat!).
1880 keeps alive the philosophy of the epicurean Juan Antonio, because this year they have launched an exclusive edition to reinterpret his slogan with nougat containing such exquisite raw materials as the
white truffle from Alba
(Italy), the
coffee from Kopi Luwak
and
saffron. of La Mancha.
Each of these nougats, which are made to order,
cost 250 euros
. Sirvent does not want to specify how many tablets have been sold, but assures that they have exceeded expectations. "The three have left the R&D laboratory of the Jijona factory after months of testing until they have found the combinations that, they assure, are His favorite is the Jijona nougat (the soft one) with
Kopi Luwak coffee, the most expensive in the world
(900 euros per kilo). The most demanded so far, especially in the Arab market, is being Alicante (the hard one) with white truffle. Perhaps because it has
gold leaf
, a real
magnet for the sheikhs
.
The sophisticated trio can be seen (not tasted) in the
shop that 1880 opened
four months ago in the center of Madrid, on Calle Mayor, one of the most touristy in the capital.
There they are exhibited alongside other more traditional and affordable tablets.
And the thing is that
tourists are crazy about the nougat and they take it, along with the ham, as a souvenir
.
"It is a
gourmet
product from
Spain, with a great reputation", justifies Sirvent.
The president of the nougat company assures that they have no intention of opening more stores, but that they were very excited to return to Madrid, where the family already had a place that was closed after the Civil War.
Alicante nougat with white truffle and gold leaf, which costs 250 euros.
José Manuel is the
ninth generation of a family that started making nougat in 1725
. Almost 300 years later, 1880 is still in his hands thanks to an
established system of mayorazgo
that has avoided family quarrels and has allowed
Sirvent to be the constant last name in the company.
At least until now, because
the tenth generation is headed by two women,
Isabel and Beatriz, the first to take the reins of the company. The first is
José Manuel's daughter and the second is his niece,
daughter of his only brother, who died at the age of 25. "I'm very proud of them, it was about time the Sirvent women took over." They are both 28 years old and internationally trained, like José Manuel himself, who
studied in the United States and Switzerland
, or his father, who did
sociology at Oxford
. Jijona, he assures, was a
cosmopolitan town
and nougat entrepreneurs were very enterprising people who in the 19th century traveled to New York or Paris and
built factories in Cuba, Argentina or Venezuela.
Almonds and honey have no secrets for him.
He was born in his family's factory, like his grandfather and father, and at the age of 24 he took over the reins of the company.
"My parents' house was in the factory, you didn't have access from the street and you entered through the store or through the office," he says.
He also remembers the
snacks of bread with nougat
that his mother gave him every day, or how
the dining room of his house was a
showroom
where customers were received
.
See this post on Instagram
The family faces the Christmas campaign with optimism after a 2020 in which they suffered the consequences of the pandemic with the closure of
duty free
(one of their points of sale) and the reduced family gatherings. For this year they foresee a
turnover of 22 million euros
and the manufacture of 2.5 million kilos of nougat and another half a million Christmas sweets.
The
seasonality
remains its workhorse -the
65% of sales occur at Christmas
- but will gradually mitigating the increase in exports.
The United States and Latin America are their main markets, followed by Europe and the Arab countries, where they have
several royal families among their clientele
.
And they are not the only ones.
Sirvent does not give names but assures that they have many celebrities on their agenda.
Also
royals
and not only Arabs
.
"Our nougat was served for dessert at the royal wedding of a Spanish woman and a European prince
.
"
Guess what?
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