"The secret is our sheep, they give our cheese that characteristic flavor ... In the market there will be similar ones, but not the same."
Antonio Marqués
and his wife,
Emilia Mendiola,
never thought they would end up founding a cheese factory when, back in 1998, they launched into the world of agricultural and livestock production.
And, much less, that some of his cheeses, made on his farm in Ciempozuelos, would become
the best in the world in the last five years
.
With the entry of the new century, this couple realized that the future of their sector was bleak.
They could not continue to live on "generating milk and lamb
.
"
Hence, in 2013 they began to manufacture cheese under the name Marqués de Mendiola, a decision that was not born out of love of art, as its founder says, but
for an economic reason.
"I am completely sincere. Unfortunately, livestock is a total ruin. You are in the hands of the industry. They know perfectly what our costs and margins are, and they
buy from you at the right price so that you do not die
. Sometimes, less."
Encouraged to continue in the rural environment and "continue doing what we like" they threw themselves into the void.
And they
learned from scratch, as they went along,
as they had no idea how cheese was made.
Almost from the beginning they were presenting their genre to contests, as a thermometer.
Until the mercury rose, and a lot, in 2016,
turning its history upside down and putting Ciempozuelos on the map
internationally.
Superoro Medal
They participated in the World Cheese Awards, considered the
Oscars
of cheeses, where their añejo received the Superoro medal. "That meant it was
one of the 16 best cheeses in the world
. From there we began to get to know us a little more, we began to sell outside of Spain, to make more production ... within which we are a very small family business "remembers Antonio.
Currently they generate
25,000 kilos a year of cheeses
, which are then sold in two and three kilos formats. "In total, we sell
about 10,000 units a
year
. We could still produce a little more since all the milk we extract is not transformed into cheese, but we want to continue like this, slowly and doing it well", adds this Madrid businessman.
In total, its cheeses have been
recognized with 28 international medals
. The latest, a little over a month ago. At the end of October, they won new gold at the International Cheese and Dairy Awards, one of the most important competitions at a global level, with the participation of more than 5,000 different cheeses from all over the world. Also the top contest, the World Cheese Awards, which was held 10 days later, recognized Marqués de Mendiola. In this they
harvested another seven medals, including three gold medals
for their aged cheeses, rosemary and organic cured.
"International competitions recognize some of
our cheeses as the best in the world,
" assumes a humble Antonio, who tries to downplay the feat.
And she reels: "We make this product with the milk of our nearly 1,000 sheep, which are of the Assaf breed. The day the milk runs out we will not buy more, nor will we make more cheeses."
Finding employees, a challenge
This important number of cattle, adds this businessman, is not easy to manage.
"The animals eat daily, they have to be milked every day without exception ... and there is a very serious labor problem. It is extremely
difficult, not to mention impossible, to find workers
."
Even so, Marqués de Mendiola
employs six people,
reaching eight in the busiest times.
It is still a family business with a modest production, how simple is the way to buy their cheeses.
Beyond some specific charcuterie in certain neighborhoods of Madrid, they are acquired in the old way:
or by going to the farm itself
to see the genre
in situ
or by phone
, checking its entire catalog of cheeses on its website.
"I always encourage people to call us or send us an email,
we personally attend to all clients
to guide them. It is all much closer."
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