Why Zara cannot expand to Bordeaux

• The Departmental Commercial Development Commission has issued an unfavorable opinion on the Zara store expansion project in Bordeaux.

• She explains her decision in particular by the possible recourse to forced labor of Uyghurs in China by Inditex, the parent company of the brand.

• The latter defends itself with

  20 Minutes

  against these accusations and will appeal this decision.

It is a decision that could set a precedent. A few days ago, the departmental commercial development commission (CDAC) rejected the request to expand the Zara clothing store, located rue Sainte-Catherine in Bordeaux. One of the reasons for this refusal is the possible exploitation of the Uyghurs, a Turkish-speaking Muslim population of Xinjiang province in northwest China, by the parent company of the ready-to-wear brand, Inditex.

Last April, a complaint was filed by several NGOs and a Uyghur survivor against four multinational clothing companies (Inditex, Uniqlo, SMCP and Skechers) after the publication of a report on the use of forced labor in this minority.

These companies are accused of "concealment of forced labor and crimes against humanity" according to a statement.

And today, it is this investigation, still in progress, which poses a problem for the CDAC de la Gironde.

• What is the project ?

Zara wants to double the sales area of ​​its Bordeaux store in the coming months.

At present it is 972m² on three levels.

The objective is to develop an additional 1.098m² on two new levels, the fourth and fifth floors of the building.

This extension requires a modification of the facade and therefore the filing of a building permit with the town hall of Bordeaux.

Beforehand, the Departmental Commercial Development Commission must be contacted.

This body examines all projects for the creation or extension of retail stores exceeding 1,000 m2 of sales area.

It is made up of qualified personalities and representatives of elected officials at the departmental level.

On November 17, she gave an unfavorable opinion to the Spanish brand's project.

• What does CDAC say?

In detail, the committee's vote translates into three votes against, one for and six abstentions. “This project contravenes the CDAC's sustainable development criteria on two out of three aspects: ecology and social issues. The first with the impact of fast-fashion [Anglo-Saxon expression which designates fashion companies whose business model is based on the constant renewal of clothing collections, a maximum of times a year, and as quickly as possible] on the environment and the second with this survey on the Uyghurs, ”explains Sandrine Jacotot, elected mayor of Bordeaux (EELV) and member of the committee.

Marie-Laure Cuvelier, regional advisor, adds that "the Region is very attentive to corporate social responsibility (CSR) and this is also a strong signal" that the CDAC wants to send.

"It is now up to Zara France to explain how its business model meets the social criteria of the commission," concludes Sandrine Jacotot.

• What does Inditex, Zara's parent company say?

Contacted Thursday by

the Spanish group Inditex "wishes to express its surprise at the apparent motivation for this decision made public, which is not based on a court decision.

"He also points out" the lack of foundation and rigor of the accusations contained in the complaint raised by the Commission.

"

Jean-Jacques Salaün, the managing director of Zara France, was in Bordeaux on Wednesday to support the management of the store and its employees.

He told

that the company was not present in this region of Xinjiang at the time of the release of the Aspi report, without specifying whether the group had been present there in the past.

The leader added that this decision prevented the creation of fifteen jobs.

• What can happen?

Inditex informed

that Zara France will appeal to the National Commission for Commercial Development (CNAC) of the decision of the Departmental Commercial Development Commission of the Municipality of Bordeaux in the coming days.

Its referral constitutes a compulsory preliminary administrative appeal to any contentious procedure.

If the appeal is admissible, the CNAC re-examines the project, in the light of the same legal criteria.

It has a period of four months from its referral to issue an opinion or a decision which then replaces that rendered by the CDAC.

Failing this, an implicit decision is deemed to have been taken, which confirms the decision of the departmental commercial development commission.

Justice

Uyghurs: Investigation opened in France for forced labor against four textile giants

World

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• China

• Working conditions

• Society

• Uighurs

• Zara

• Aquitaine

• Bordeaux

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