Metropolis The best croquettes in Spain
As someone who says out of nowhere, Cristina Comenge (Madrid, 1981)
built her croquettes empire
.
A more than 30-year-old cream cooker was enough for her, which she managed while her husband, Diego, distributed the orders that were coming out.
It was 2013, and this couple had just inaugurated their workshop Oido Cocina Gourmet.
"
They called us crazy
. How were we going to open a ham croquettes workshop? But from the start the numbers were good."
In eight years, their numbers have gone from good to extraordinary: they currently
sell more than four million croquettes a year
. And not only do they do it in Spain (both on their website, oidococinagourmet.com, and in Carrefour or El Corte Inglés), they have also made the leap exporting them to England, Germany, France ...
and even Hong Kong
(thanks to the advice of the Community of Madrid through its Single Internalization Window).
"One of our secrets is that we do not skimp on raw materials.
We add about 20%
, a fifth of the croquette ... We want that when someone bites it, they know what they are eating, it makes me very angry when I take one
and I don't know what flavor it is "
, reveals a smiling Comenge, who continues to reveal another of the
tricks
of his success: the batter.
Oido Cocina Gourmet uses
panko
, Japanese breadcrumbs ("it costs a lot, about three euros per kilo"), which absorbs less oil, makes its croquettes
healthier and gives them a crunchier touch.
2-46 employees
Recently, given the
boom
that surrounds them, they have moved to a larger workshop,
of 1,000 square meters
, in Villaverde.
There they employ 12 people, and they add 34 more in their points of sale ... "
From being only two to 46
... It's amazing," explains Comenge, who is surprised to mentally retrace the road traveled to get there. here.
"Nowadays I see it everywhere: cooking is very fashionable and
being a cook is the bomb
... But before it was not so well seen. At home they told me that it was a good hobby, but to study other things. And I, who was always a good daughter, paid attention to them. "
The Madrid chef Cristina Comenge with a plate of her famous croquettes.BERNARDO DÍAZ
Thus he graduated in Law.
And later he got a master's degree in Journalism.
But during those years, he says, he volunteered after his classes to restaurants to
"peel potatoes or wash dishes" for free.
"I wanted to learn. That was a turning point at home for them to support me," recalls this chef, who would later study cooking in both Paris and London ... Until her time came in Madrid.
In 2007 he opened his restaurant Oven 180 on Jorge Juan Street, where, unexpectedly, his
croquetily
adventure begins
.
The success of their croquettes became such that
one person only assigned them to make them
.
"They were very famous, everyone asked us for them: neighboring restaurants, clients who had a wedding ...".
The idea that changed everything
It was then that her husband came up with his idea: "
We have to do something
with them ... there is a lot of demand."
They shut down Oven 180 in 2012 and jumped into the void.
They started selling to five restaurants, then to 10. Then to 20. Then to 100 ... Until today, they
have
already
lost count of their customers
thanks to their portfolio of more than 16 different types of croquettes.
His latest invention? A vegan cauliflower with coconut milk and curry that joins the leek ones, the black truffle ... "I try to get
a new croquette every four or five months
. I also develop some that are commissioned by very specific clients," she reels this Madrid chef, who during confinement, to avoid writing one by one to her friends what they could cook to get out of typical meals, opened the Instagram profile @saboresdemisamores, where she
uploads all the recipes she makes at home
. The account, a great success, brings together "easy and attractive" dishes.
It is more difficult for him to quantify the number of croquettes he has tried in his life, but, he says, "I ask for them wherever I go."
"It's an obsession, whether it's a restaurant or a roadside bar. There are many good ones, I think
Asturians are the kings of croquettes.
We have a great level in this country, it is very difficult to eat badly."
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