Bangkok (AFP)

Once legendary, the nightlife of the Thai capital has been dormant for many months and the ban on serving alcohol to fight the spread of the coronavirus.

Thailand has recorded around 1.7 million cases to date, the bulk of it since April when an outbreak born in the Night Quarter spread across the country, leading authorities to lower the rate. curtain on night clubs and bars.

Without public assistance, some business owners have ignored the ban, discreetly serving alcohol in simple coffee cups or soda cans.

Others had to get creative, such as Teens of Thailand, a bar popular before the pandemic for its gin cocktails.

The list of kratom-based "mocktails" offered at the Teens of Thailand bar, October 9, 2021 in Bangkok Jack TAYLOR AFP

Today he offers "mocktails" (alcohol-free cocktails) based on kratom, a plant of the same family as coffee which stimulates the same brain receptors as morphine but with much lighter effects.

Removed from drug list

The plant, used for centuries in Southeast Asia, was removed from the Thai government's banned list last August.

Four dollars a glass, against eleven for a Gin and Tonic: Nick Anuman-Rajadhon, the owner of the bar, still finds its account there.

Nick Anuman-Rajadhon, boss of the Teens of Thailand bar, October 9, 2021 in Bangkok Jack TAYLOR AFP

"We have no choice, 15 to 20% of the income is enough to pay the team, to pay the rent. That's all," he told AFP.

Thailand is preparing to timidly reopen its borders, a crying need for the kingdom, where tourism represented nearly 20% of its economy before the pandemic.

But the alcoholic beverage market is still looking gray as the sale of alcohol is still prohibited in bars, restaurants and hotels across the country.

Thanakorn Kuptajit, president of an association that brings together professionals in the sector, expects a 50% drop in turnover in the sector, which before the ban represented some $ 9 billion.

The nightlife still expects a lot from the return of tourists, like Chris Wise, boss of the WTF Gallery Cafe, who had to separate or lower the wages of four employees.

Kratom leaves, a plant used for centuries in Southeast Asia, which is used to prepare "mocktails" at the Teens of Thailand bar, October 9, 2021 in Bangkok Jack TAYLOR AFP

Closed since April, the place reopens this week with a local art exhibition and a tapas menu and in early December it will again be allowed to sell alcohol.

- A slight bitter taste -

But "the sanook (enjoying) life, mai pen rai (no worries), its bai dee (relaxed) that Thais have will not come back for a long time," says Chris Wise.

"It's a disaster. We have lost the crafts, we have lost the workforce of the industry. We have lost good bars, good restaurants because of the mismanagement of the government," says Nick. Anuman-Rajadhon.

As the time for the country's reopening draws near, Teens patrons enjoy their kratom drinks.

A waiter prepares a kratom-based "mocktail" at the Teens of Thailand bar, October 9, 2021 in Bangkok Jack TAYLOR AFP

A customer drinks a concoction of mango and lime topped with a honey mousse, served in a beeswax mug, the slight bitter taste of the kratom leaves being balanced by the fruity sweetness.

At the end of the bar, Pord, 40, tries his first "Tiger Ear", a drink made from kratom, sparkling water and lime.

"It tastes like a tangy plum. It's refreshing," he told AFP.

© 2021 AFP