Gaza (Palestinian Territories) (AFP)

On deck, the nine crew members cling to rusty metal rods where fishing nets extend, their boat advancing over rough seas, towing five boats that will later serve as strange bait. .

The full moon swells in the sky, the sun fades over the horizon and out of the sea, the lights of Gaza begin to blur.

7:00 p.m.

The team is about three miles (5.5 km) from the coast.

Mohammed, a smile illuminating his face eaten by a bushy beard, launches his instructions: "We must leave three boats here. Come on guys!".

Youssef and others detach the boats to anchor them at sea and start the generator unit linked to lamps, in order to create an island of light to attract fish.

Once the operation is complete, the boat, measuring 4 by 15 meters, resumes its journey.

On board, the smell of sardines from past peaches mingles with that of the smoke from the exhaust of the huge generator devouring a quantity of diesel to pull the boat, which rocks without disturbing Mohammed, obsessed with his fishing.

Palestinian fishermen remove their net from the waters on September 22, 2021 off the coast of Gaza MAHMUD HAMS AFP

"If we catch 200 kilos of sardines, that would be great. But we can also come back empty-handed," says the 28-year-old captain, who fears, like every night, trips to sea where the cost of diesel exceeds the selling price of the Peach.

A Volvo on water

Since the capture of the Gaza Strip by the Islamists of Hamas in 2007, Israel has imposed a blockade on this Palestinian territory of two million inhabitants in endemic unemployment.

At sea, this blockade results in a limitation of the fishing zone.

When rockets or incendiary balloons are launched from Gaza into Israel, the Jewish state also responds by reducing this area.

Palestinian fishermen off the coast of Gaza, September 22, 2021 MAHMUD HAMS AFP

On this autumn night, more than four months after the last war between Israel and Hamas, the sea area is very large compared to usual: 15 nautical miles (about 28 km).

But Mohammed and his men did not venture further than six miles (11 km).

"We do not have the boat and the engine to go further, the further we go, the more we pay for fuel without guarantee of catch", he explains.

For fishermen, the blockade is not limited to restrictions on the fishing zone, monitored at sea and in the air by Israeli forces.

Engines, sonars, boats and spare parts are considered "dual-use" equipment by Israel, which restricts access to Gaza fearing that they may fall into the hands of arms smugglers.

But in the realm of resourcefulness, Gaza's fishermen are king.

Mohammed, the son of a fisherman, installed the engine of a Volvo in the hold, to allow the ignition of the generator which pulls the boat and supplies the lamps.

9:00 p.m.

The boat slows down and the crew dozed off on the deck.

Youssef, 22, stays awake: "I've been fishing since I was 14. Every day, when the sea is open, I go out fishing (...) it's the only thing I know how to do in life".

“But with the blockade, all the boats are fishing in the same area so there aren't enough fish,” he sighs before the crew hurriedly wakes up.

Palestinian fisherman Mohammed al-Nahl (c) and his convoy of boats return to Gaza port after a night of fishing, September 22, 2021 MAHMUD HAMS AFP

"Yalla!".

Midnight 55. Suddenly, the fishermen turn off the lights, jump on boats and set a net in the sea to surround the school of fish attracted by the lighthouses.

- The Wall Street of Gaza -

In the opaque night, Mohammed, Youssef and the others pull the net singing: "Here is the fish, catch it, because it is my beloved fish".

The sardines rise to the surface, wriggling.

The fish is then carried in about ten plastic bins.

Then Mohammed quickly takes the helm.

Direction the trio of boats with their lights on.

Bins full of sardines displayed in Gaza port before being sold at the fish market, September 22, 2021 MAHMUD HAMS AFP

On the spot, the maneuver resumes: turn off the lights, bring up the net.

And there ... a jubilant cry pierces the night.

The Mediterranean has delivered fruits that Mohammed did not expect: about half a ton of fish that will pile up on the deck.

At first light of day, direction Gaza.

Mohammed and his family return triumphant, but exhausted, as the port wakes up to the rhythm of the auction.

Wholesalers then assaulted the port in search of catches intended for stalls or for export.

"55 shekels for this bin! Sold," shouted the fisheries commissioner that morning, quizzed by traders while kids glean sardines that have fallen from the bins.

Palestinian fishermen display their catch before selling it at the fish market on September 22, 2021 in Gaza MAHMUD HAMS AFP

Mohammed's half-ton of sardines flies away in 90 seconds, for around 3,000 shekels (around 800 euros).

This is more than Mohammed had hoped for.

But counting the diesel, the fishermen's pay, the purchase of the equipment and the days of non-fishing, the profits remain limited.

© 2021 AFP