Milan (AFP)
Satin, flowing dresses, exuberant furs: the public was at the rendezvous on Wednesday for the Fendi fashion show, the first major meeting of spring-summer 2022 women's fashion week in Milan.
For this post-Covid reunion, street style photographers had come to look out for the best looks of celebrities, on the lookout for a snapshot of Vogue director Anna Wintour, influencer Chiara Ferragni or director Luca Guadagnino.
At the entrance, health pass and mask compulsory.
Inside, the public crowded in a less tight row than usual.
A model presents a model from the Fendi spring-summer 2022 women's collection at the opening of Milan Fashion Week, September 22, 2021 Tiziana FABI AFP
"It's hard not to be enthusiastic. This is the first time in 18 months that we find our audience with the feeling of an almost return to normal", comments the CEO of Fendi Serge Brunschwig, visibly happy to welcome finally his guests.
On the catwalk, the collection of artistic director Kim Jones continues to weave the thread of the history of the Roman brand that the Englishman has embraced with elegance and refinement for two seasons.
The decor and the soundtrack set the tone for this collection which plunges into the 70s and the age of disco.
Against the backdrop of Diana Ross and Chic, the models parade with looks and attitudes reminiscent of Grace Jones, Jerry Hall or Bianca Jagger.
The immaculate white of the first silhouettes, suits or wide trouser combinations, is like the blank page on which are gradually printed illustrations by Antonio Lopez, famous fashion illustrator, to contaminate the rest of the collection.
- "Note of fantasy" -
Kim Jones has indeed found in the archives of the house a Fendi logo drawn by hand by the artist, the starting point of the collection and the desire to celebrate a work and an era.
“Lopez was a friend of Karl Lagerfeld and was always someone who inspired me. He was forward thinking, inclusive, admired by everyone from Andy Warhol to Steven Meisel and David Hockney. I wanted to present him. to a new generation ", comments the Englishman in the presentation note of the parade.
His brushstrokes therefore appear on kaftans, silk blouses and bags.
More figurative designs with women's faces become colorful patterns in leather marquetry, lace or shimmering jacquards.
A model presents a model from the Fendi spring-summer 2022 women's collection at the opening of Milan Fashion Week, September 22, 2021 Tiziana FABI AFP
The work on fur, dear to the Roman house, is not lacking with colorful coats of fox and feathers.
"Kim continues her momentum with her elegance, her refinement, and this touch of fantasy, this work between the past and the future", commented Serge Brunschwig after the show.
"He understood the brand, in its depth, he came to enrich us like a new member of the family".
A model presents a model from the Fendi spring-summer 2022 women's collection at the opening of Milan Fashion Week, September 22, 2021 Tiziana FABI AFP
It was also in the company of Silvia Venturini Fendi, director of accessories, and her daughter Delfina Delettrez Fendi, designer of the house's jewelry, that the Englishman came to greet the public at the end of the parade.
© 2021 AFP