Japanese Wine Challenges Faced Challenges in the Vineyard September 17, 18:45

"Japanese wine" is brewed domestically using grapes cultivated in Japan.

International reputation is also increasing.

However, it is said that the production areas are now facing certain challenges.

When I visited the site, I began to search for a way to pass on the production area to the next generation.

(Misato Yasui, Reporter, Ministry of Economic Affairs)

Concerns of a grape farmer

In mid-September, I visited Chikuma City, Nagano Prefecture.

It is one of the main sources of wine grapes.

I heard that producers are facing some troubles lately.

Fumiyasu Kitazawa (42) responded to the interview.

I have been growing grapes since my grandfather's generation in a field of about 2 hectares.

On the day I visited, Mr. Kitazawa's farm was about to reach its peak when the grapes were harvested.

Mr. Kitazawa started cultivating the representative variety of white wine "Sauvignon Blanc" five years ago.

However, Mr. Kitazawa was now worried that the cultivation of this popular variety would not be possible in the near future.

The reason was the rising "temperature".

I think that one of the factors that determine the taste of wine, "sourness," will decline as the temperature rises.

Mr. Kitazawa

"If the temperature continues to exceed 35 degrees Celsius, the color of the grapes will deteriorate and the acidity will drop. Sauvignon Blanc is a variety with a characteristic acidity. It is still okay now, but if the temperature rises further, here I think it will be difficult to grow. "

Faced with climate change How to protect winemaking

"Japanese wine" is brewed domestically using grapes cultivated in Japan.

The history of Japanese winemaking is short since the Meiji era, compared to France and Italy, but recently, some wines have won gold prizes in internationally prestigious competitions.

The export value of wine from Japan will be about 350 million yen in 2020, which is about twice as much as the previous year despite the corona disaster.

For many years, Japanese winemaking has been centered around Yamanashi and Nagano prefectures, which have long daylight hours in addition to a cool climate and low rainfall.

Of these, Nagano Prefecture has the highest production of grapes for wine in Japan, but looking at the annual average temperature of Nagano City, it was 10.4 degrees Celsius in 1889 when statistics began to be collected, but it was the first time in 2016. It has exceeded 13 degrees Celsius, and last year's temperature was 13.1 degrees Celsius.

In addition, the average highest temperature in August was 33.5 degrees Celsius, the third highest in the past last year.

Another concern for Mr. Kitazawa is the change in rainfall.

In mid-August, a record heavy rainfall was observed in Nagano prefecture due to the influence of a stagnant front.

If the grapes are exposed to the rain for a long time, they can grow moldy and rot.

We believe that increasing the frequency of long and heavy rains will inevitably affect grape production.

New initiatives starting from the production area

Under these circumstances, Mr. Kitazawa embarked on a new initiative to protect the production area.

Cultivation of heat-resistant varieties.

We started cultivating "Malbec", a grape for red wine.

The main production area is Argentina in South America, and even in warm regions, the acidity that is essential for the taste is maintained, and the wine is finished with a deep reddish tinge.

In Japan, "Merlot" and the unique variety "Muscat Bailey A" are mainly cultivated, and "Malbec" is rare, but with the cooperation of Chikuma City, Malbec cultivated in Mr. Kitazawa's field. We are conducting a trial brewing of wine using.

Mr. Kitazawa wants to sell wines that are resistant to heat and help revitalize the local wine industry.

Mr. Kitazawa

"In anticipation of further warming, it is important to grow grapes and select varieties. There are hundreds of grapes for wine in the world, so we looked ahead 10 to 20 years from now. Sometimes I think it's one way to choose the right varieties for cultivation in warmer regions. "

Major wineries also work

In Yamanashi Prefecture, a major winery operated by "Suntory" has begun to respond to global warming.

Located in Kai, this winery has been producing wine for over 100 years on the site of five Tokyo Domes.

Here, in order to protect the main production area, we have begun a demonstration experiment of a new cultivation method in collaboration with the local University of Yamanashi.

In this demonstration experiment, in May when the grapes bloom, the branches that originally form the bunches of grapes are boldly cut off.

The work is done by Associate Professor Munekazu Kishimoto of the University of Yamanashi.

This year, we conducted an experiment on 500 "Merlot" tree branches.

This method is called "fukusho cultivation".

By cutting off the branches, you can wait for new branches to grow and delay the growth of the vines by about a month and a half.

Associate Professor Kishimoto believes that by delaying the peak harvest from mid-September to November and maturing the grapes in the cooler months, the color and aroma of the wine can be preserved even as global warming progresses.

Associate Professor Kishimoto

"Some people move their fields to Hokkaido, which is cooler due to global warming, so I want to protect the quality of wine while using the trees that are currently being cultivated. I would like to provide technical support in other areas if requested. "

This method takes the plunge and cuts the branches before harvesting only once a year.

The winery staff said that they couldn't hide the turmoil at first, but when comparing the grapes cultivated as before and the grapes tested, the difference in coloration is obvious.

As of the end of August, normal grapes were ripe red, while the grapes under experiment were still lush.

However, experiments to slow growth have just begun.

Grapes also need to be groomed as they grow, such as by spraying bactericidal drugs.

Since the timing of maintenance changes by shifting the harvest, it is necessary to fully determine whether there is a real impact on the workmanship, taking into account the climatic conditions.

At the winery, we will consider increasing the variety and number of grapes that will delay the harvest from next year, after seeing the results of this year.

Mr. Kohei Oyama, who is the chief cultivation engineer of this winery, said, "As seniors have tried and errored in Yamanashi prefecture, which has a history of more than 100 years of wine, we will continue to produce with particular attention to this land. I want to continue taking on challenges based on the results and challenges of this experiment. "

Bringing the winemaking tradition to the next generation

According to farmers, in Japanese wine producing areas, not only quality deterioration due to warming, but also landslides caused by heavy rains have caused the roots of grape trees grown over several years to be scraped off. ..

Since the Meiji era, Japanese wine has won the reputation of overseas wine lovers due to the steady improvement of varieties and brewing techniques of many farmers and wineries.

I felt that the tradition of winemaking should be preserved and that climate change measures should be taken closer to the brand in order to develop the brand.

Reporter of the Ministry of Economic Affairs

Misatoshi Yasui Joined the

station in

2014

After working at the Sendai station and Nagasaki station, he was in charge of the distribution industry, etc.