Bérénice Bourgueil 7:08 am, September 11, 2021
Gastronomy, leisure ... Every weekend at 6:38 am, Marion Sauveur and Vanessa Zha present a product, a producer and all the tips for re (discovering) a region.
Today we head for the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel.
Marion Sauveur, you are taking us to Brittany.
Yes, to harvest a mollusc with yellow-orange flesh, with a good iodized and sweet taste, the only seafood to benefit from a protected designation of origin and which goes wonderfully with fries!
These are the Bouchot mussels from the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel.
And we are in the heart of the season.
It started at the end of July and will last until mid-February at the latest.
Between 10,000 and 12,000 tonnes of mussels are produced on average each year.
Is it a Bouchot mussel variety?
Bouchot mussel is not a variety, or even an appellation.
It is a breeding technique.
According to legend, it dates back to the 13th century and we owe it to an Irishman stranded on the Charente coast.
To survive, he would have stretched nets between two stakes with the aim of catching birds.
We do not know if he took any but he would have discovered that the molds were attached and developed on the stakes.
Piles called bouchots.
It would be the contraction of the word wooden fence, in Gaelic.
I told you he was Irish.
It gives, with the accent, "bout choat".
It was still necessary to wait until the 20th century for this culture on bouchot to develop in Brittany and Normandy.
In the bay of Mont Saint Michel, this breeding technique began in 1954.
What is special about bouchot mussels from Mont-Saint-Michel bay?
Bouchot mussels are not permanently submerged, unlike mussels raised on ropes.
They are in the open air twice a day, depending on the tides when the stakes disappear at high tide and reappear at low tide.
Bouchots planted vertically on the coast of 3.50 meters at the highest which limit the grains of sand.
They get bigger less quickly.
It takes a minimum of 11 months of aging and has a less fragile shell.
And they are more fleshy since they close to keep their water, they develop their muscles.
A real know-how of mussel growers, that's what we call mussel producers.
Nicolas Lebeau is the 3rd generation of mussel farmer.
He explains the rest of its specificities to us.
"It is a bluish-black shell, which is between 4 and 6 cm. It is not necessarily a very very large caliber, but it is a caliber that will always be full, that is to say a beautiful flesh. inside the product in the bay of Mont St Michel, it is a yellow-orange color. the phytoplankton filtered by the mussel produces a little bit of carotene which makes that it reinforces this orange-yellow side. produced this year, a very black shell, of a good size: the averages are rather greater than 4.5 cm or even much more, so we really have a very beautiful caliber. with a nice filling. the flesh is a very small a little less beautiful than last year because of the weather, the weather this year was a little more uncertain and less conducive to having an optimum quality like last year.So they are a little sweet and a little nutty aftertaste. these are tastes that are regularly found on bouchot mussels. this is one of its characteristics ”.
And to make sure the mussels are fresh before you buy them, check the health label.
It is obligatory, you will find there in particular the name of the producer, but especially the date of packaging.
How do we cook them?
To change the mussels and fries, I suggest for the most greedy, the Breton mussels: cider.
Breton mussels:
1. brown onions with cider and mussels.
2. when they are open: stop cooking.
3. strain the juice, add the cream and a layer of this sauce over the mussels.
Mussels with tagliatelle: alla vongole
1. brown the shallots in a little butter, before opening the mussels with white wine.
on the side: seared cherry tomatoes.
2. brown the minced garlic, before adding the filtered mussel juice and finely chopped parsley.
When it has simmered, mix pasta, mussels and juice with the cherry tomatoes.
and if you have any mussels left:
aperitif
Shell them… and marinate them overnight with olive oil, lemon, sliced red onions and some herbs.
All that remains is to drain them before serving them… with a delicious chorizo condiment.
Vanessa we stay with you at Mont St Michel.
With the inescapable visit of the Mont, its bay, to do now!
It is the high tide season.
There is still one next Thursday and early October from 6 to 9. These are the highest tides in Europe.
There is a 15-meter difference between low tide and high tide. And when the sea goes back, it goes up to 15 kilometers from the coast and then rises very quickly.
You all know the expression: it goes back "at the speed of a galloping horse".
Well, it's false even if this false rumor, we owe it to Victor Hugo !!
Because in reality, a horse gallops at more than 20 km / h, the tide itself, advances only 10 km / h max, which is still fast and dangerous!
Hence the need to always cross the bay with a guide.
Who to turn to for crossings?
I recommend the Chemins de la Baie, a must-see.
They are based in Genets and they offer all types of crossings, such as barefoot or night crossings.
And then there is also a more unusual ride: Birding.
It is Sébastien who animates it.
It is an itinerant and meditative walk, with binoculars and an eye mask to discover at the same time the birds of the bay.
It's a real awakening of the senses, it's quite magical when you listen to the black-headed warbler, blindfolded… it's very joyful.
And then I also offer two other unusual activities.
It's brand new:
All-terrain electric scooters to explore the bay (from 25 euros) and the Fabike: A 3h30 outing that takes you to stop at Mont St Michel. (120 euros for 2 people which includes rental and support)
And is there an exhibition going on at the Mont?
It arrives on September 18th.
It will be quite exceptional since it is small treasures of goldsmith's work which come from abbeys or cathedrals of the 4 corners of France which will be exposed: monstrances, crowns, jewels, toilet boxes, chalices and even slavery necklaces.
Quite unique objects
And where do we put our bags and our boots then?
Either we stay sleeping in the Mount: it's magic: the tourists are gone, you are alone.
You hear the wind, the flowing water, the sea. It's quite mystical even.
"Les Terrasses Poulard" is a good address.
The rooms have beautiful views of the water or the spiers of the abbey.
Otherwise, there is the Ferme de la Motte au Mesnil Gilbert in the heart of the bocage, not far from Sourdeval.
The hostess is Anne.
She is warm, she gives cooking lessons, teaches you how to bake your bread and she also cooks organic meals.