Paris (AFP)

Shoots, legumes and grains to give "niac" to the dishes on offer: this is the new restaurant of Bras Père et Fils in Paris, a nod to the place that welcomes them, the old Halle aux blés in the Bourse de Commerce-Collection Pinault.

"This place is deeply rooted in the history of cereals, it was the lung of these products of the capital. There is a beautiful story to tell around this universe", declares to AFP Sébastien Bras, presenting the restaurant "La Halle aux grains", housed in the former Bourse du Commerce transformed into a contemporary art museum and which will open on June 10.

In his work on French gastronomy before the Revolution, the British agronomist and author Arthur Young described this bubbling place in 1789: "In the arena, what peas, beans, lentils (...) the flour on the benches (...) We go through double stairs in spacious apartments to put rye, barley, oats ".

- "Niac" -

Cereals and legumes, which the French are moderately fond of but whose consumption is encouraged by nutritionists and environmentalists, will be the common thread of the Bras à Paris plates.

"It's not vegan or vegetarian cuisine", underlines Michel Bras, father of Sébastien and pioneer 40 years ago of the vegetal-oriented menu in his starred restaurant Le Suquet, in Aubrac, the land of breeding.

# photo1

The Parisian "premium brasserie" will be open all day for visitors to the Pinault collection and outside guests, at more affordable prices than those of the famous Suquet.

In most dishes, shoots, legumes or oilseeds are used as "niac".

An essential term in the gastronomic vocabulary of Les Bras: it designates what "energizes, invigorates and questions through provocations" and leads to new flavors.

"We are going to work around fermented cereals, dehydrated sprouted seeds. It's a bit like stewed mustard, a point of attachment to each of our dishes, salty or sweet," explains Sébastien Bras.

Cereals are processed in the form of pickles.

A puffed kacha lightly seasoned with fleur de sel brightens up a steamed fish.

Lacto-fermented lentils placed on the bottom of the plate to spice up a piece of roasted Aubrac beef.

# photo2

In the gourmet restaurant Le Suquet in Laguiole, these techniques were already used, "but not as extensively" as in Paris, where they are "at the heart of the project", emphasizes Sébastien Bras.

- "A grain of reason" -

The dessert which is "most dear" to Michel Bras?

A chicory-based cream, accompanied by meringues made with the chickpea cooking water.

And over a veil of kasha and pea shoots, which bring the sweetness to balance the chicory.

All served with amaranth milk.

In the same spirit, a range of wines with a "grain of reason" theme.

Many bottles are single-varietals, "wines at affordable prices and easy to interpret," Sergio Calderon, sommelier at the gourmet restaurant in Bras, told AFP.

# photo3

"Label drinkers are confused. Here, it is ours and well-known producers are hiding behind", he underlines.

"We have simplified. We do not have the same approach when leaving an exhibition as when we do 700 km to enjoy themselves", he concludes, with reference to Le Suquet, on the volcanic plateau of Aubrac, two hours from the smallest town of 40,000 inhabitants.

© 2021 AFP