Paris (AFP)

Star-worshiped and respected by his peers: Alber Elbaz, the fashion designer in the eternal bow tie who had awakened the Lanvin house, has died at the age of 59, leaving behind a grieving fashion industry.

"It was under the shock and with great sadness that I learned of the sudden death of Alber (...) He was a man of exceptional warmth and very talented, and his vision so singular, his meaning beauty and empathy will leave an indelible mark, "said Johann Rupert, head of the Swiss luxury group Richemont in a press release, without specifying the causes of his death.

Recognizable by his round figure, his glasses and ... his bow tie, Alber Elbaz marked the fashion world with his little dresses, often black, popular with Hollywood actresses like Natalie Portman, Cate Blanchett or Sienna Miller.

“I am terribly sad to learn of the passing of Alber Elbaz, a longtime friend. Anyone lucky enough to have worked with this incredible man knows he was one of the most creative men and funny industry, a true pioneer ", reacted on Instagram Edward Enninful, editor-in-chief of Vogue UK, saluting the memory of a man" extremely talented and humble ".

- "Priority to women" -

Born in Morocco, Alber Elbaz (born Albert) began his career with American designer Geoffrey Beene in New York before being hired by Guy Laroche.

He then took over from Yves Saint Laurent for the ready-to-wear line of the French designer in 1998 before joining Lanvin in 2001.

At the helm for 14 years, he succeeded in the feat of replacing the oldest French fashion house, founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889, in the firmament of the fashion planet, giving it back success and notoriety.

At Lanvin, he asserts his style and his vision of fashion for women.

A functional fashion that must accompany their bodies and enhance them.

"Women are more independent, they dare more. They do not depend on their husband who gives them a check to buy a dress. They do not depend on a stylist either (...) A piece of clothing must accompany them. . They want to move with it, to live with it. Movement is essential for me, it's life, "he said in an interview with L'Express magazine in 2008.

He also signed a capsule collection in 2010 for the Swedish ready-to-wear giant H&M.

- Traumatic departure -

In 2015, he was ousted from the Lanvin house.

A brutal and traumatic departure for the creator, who will have difficulty recovering from it.

The following years, he is discreet, producing a few collaborations here and there.

He notably signed one for Tod's on bags and shoes and another with Converse sneakers.

At the end of 2019, he joined forces with the Swiss Richemont in order to create his own brand "AZ Factory", which he wanted "functional and suitable for everyone".

"It's a new start. A digital luxury brand based on innovation and technology, but above all, a place to experiment and try new ideas," he said at the launch of his brand.

A new start that is cut short and that leaves a world in mourning, a few months after the death of Kenzo, who died of Covid-19.

"Alber Elbaz, the fine, wise and capricious couturier who gave priority to women, passed away after three weeks of fighting the Covid", said on Instagram, the fashion pope, the American Suzy Menkes.

"Tragic disappearance of Alber Elbaz, great fashion designer and great artist, intensely attached to know-how, wanting innovation of which he understood the full scope and necessity. He had so much talent and also genius. Immense sadness" , reacted on Twitter the executive president of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion in France, Pascal Morand.

© 2021 AFP