In southern Thailand, low-key Ramadan for Muslims

Koran and other religious books in a mosque in southern Thailand.

LightRocket via Getty Images - Jonas Gratzer

Text by: Carol Isoux

4 min

All this week, which marks the start of Ramadan for Muslims, RFI correspondents report to you this moment of fasting, prayers and sharing in a context of a pandemic.

In the south of Thailand, more precisely, a region plagued by clashes between armed Muslim groups and the central, Buddhist power, it is a discreet Ramadan that is practiced.

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From our correspondent

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Thailand grants religious freedom to all its citizens, but Ramadan is celebrated discreetly: prayers, fasting, but no parties, no gatherings, no music in the evening, a bit like what we ask of communities Muslim women in the country.

They have the right to exist, but discreetly, always with the notion that a true Thai is a Buddhist.

The monarchy-state-Buddhist alliance is very strong in the country, so much so that in certain areas where the majority of the population is Muslim, as is the case in the three southernmost provinces of the country, on the border with Malaysia. , where the population is over 80% Muslim, it is difficult to accept this pact.

And for example, it remains difficult to accept that all officials representing the State are Buddhists, that public schools teach Buddhism, that the local language, Malayu, be neglected, or even despised in favor of Thai, that the resources natural resources are completely monopolized by the central power.

As a result, the area has been bogged down for nearly two decades in a struggle for autonomy that has left more than 7,000 dead.

A war that we don't talk much about

It is a conflict that the Thai government seems to prefer to let rot.

Since 2004, bombs have exploded there every month

, in particular, at the many military checkpoints that dot the region.

Several state school teachers have been murdered.

The period of Ramadan, moreover, is often particularly murderous.

No proposal for more autonomy, however there has been a recent cultural shift in favor of Islamic law: since for a few months in Yala province, Muslim women and men can be arrested if they show signs affection in public.

This question of mores really represents the front line in Thailand between Buddhists and Muslims: Buddhists are rather open on questions of sexuality, homosexuality, gender, not Muslims who claim another model.

And that fuels animosity on both sides.

An ever-present fear

However, cohabitation between Buddhists and Muslims is going rather well, especially if we compare it with other countries in the region.

There is a lot of talk about the economic integration of Muslims which has been done better than in other countries with in particular the rapid increase in land prices in the south of the country, the very touristy regions around Phüket or the islands.

Theravada Buddhism as practiced in Thailand accommodates many other beliefs.

The communities are quite separate and details annoy: for example the virtual obligation to place portraits of the king in mosques.

There is undeniably a fear of Muslims on the part of Buddhists, and among Muslims a resentment of still being seen as second-class citizens. 

To read also: In China, the beginning of Ramadan gives rise to a very active battle on the propaganda front

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