Paris (AFP)

After the scale of the Grand Palais, the intimate space of a Parisian nightclub: Chanel placed its virtual show on Tuesday in a sensual universe, where the girls have fun with each other while parading.

A more "warm" and "lively" aesthetic is in tune with the times, believes Virginie Viard, creator of Chanel, who took over from Karl Lagerfeld two years ago.

Since then, it has not ceased to stand out from the larger-than-life parades, reproducing the creator's beach, ski resort or supermarket, for minimalist staging.

The models in shiny and transparent outfits casually drop their coats in the cloakroom, finish their make-up, pass each other on the stairs of Castel, a private club in Saint-Germain-des-Prés with lounges decorated in red velvet with a nightclub.

"I love the contrasts, so for the larger pieces of winter, I wanted a small space (...) I imagined the models doing their parade between them", emphasizes Virginie Viard in the parade's intent note.

"I was thinking of the fashion shows Karl told me about back then, a long time ago, where models dressed and made up themselves."

Closed because of the pandemic, Castel was chosen for "its small house side where the models have fun like at a girls' night out. It's very sensual", explains Virginie Viard.

Contrasting with the gloom of the moment, the atmosphere is festive and the cloakroom invites you to go dancing, with glitter ballerinas or wearing rhinestone clutch bags.

The designer also plays with contrasts in terms of volumes and materials: a long tweed coat reveals bare legs wearing voluminous black curly faux fur boots.

A black tweed pantsuit with small blue lurex checks is adorned with thin pearl straps and a layering of long necklaces.

Two-tone "down jacket" style boots unzip to make way for a boot with a silver heel.

The ski suits in white quilted embroidered with red and blue patterns, or in fuchsia tweed, are worn with strappy sandals.

"This collection is a mix of two influences: the atmosphere of winter sports, which I love, and a certain idea of ​​Parisian cool chic, from the 70s to today", emphasizes Virginie Viard.

Some looks pay tribute to Briton Stella Tennant, model and muse of Karl Lagerfeld, who committed suicide in December.

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