Épinay-sur-Seine (AFP)

"Showing your vulnerability is a great strength," assures trans designer Nicola Lecourt Mansion, whose "flamboyant" and non-gendered outfits are inspired by lingerie to the point of putting it at the center.

In the courtyard of the cinema studios in Epinay-sur-Seine, north of Paris, where the filming of a presentation film of the collection unveiled on Saturday as part of Fashion week is taking place, a round model poses in a red jumpsuit second skin and sneakers.

A large opening on the back, down to the bottom of the buttocks, reveals a red thong and tattooed skin.

"Lingerie represents what is close to the body. It is an aspect of oneself that is a little private, intimate too", explains to AFP the founder of the brand that bears his name, Nicolas Lecourt Mansion (but with a "s "to Nicolas).

Wearing it visibly makes it fragile.

"The power of this vulnerability is what interests me", it is "in the DNA" of the brand, continues the 27-year-old stylist, originally from Alsace and winner in 2019 of the prestigious Andam prize.

In her latest collection unveiled on Saturday evening during women's ready-to-wear week, an embroidered thong hangs over a dress with press studs.

A blazer uses suspender cuts, which allows "this tailor-made piece to adapt to two worlds".

The same goes for a flesh-colored jumpsuit that closes over the back like a bra and that you can put on for a night out or to do your yoga class.

"We have the impression of a corset, but it is just the seams that have been folded down and mounted so that you find the comfort of a T-shirt, you can wear it every day", she emphasizes .

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“Everything is really designed to be close to the body without really compressing it,” she insists.

Styled with a ponytail, her eyes highlighted by a line of black eyeliner, Nicola Lecourt Mansion wears a "super comfortable" pleated apple green tunic-pants set.

The very long red nails adorned with rhinestones, "it's for filming," she slips, otherwise they would get in the way of sewing.

The collection is inspired by "Clueless", an American film for adolescents from the 1990s, to which the "twin sets" jacket-miniskirt (kilt) in tweed with crystal buttons pay homage.

"These are clothes designed for every day for a person who likes lightness, what shines, what is soft", underlines the stylist.

Lady Gaga wore a Nicolas Lecourt Mansion dress in crystal fishnet and the stylist has worked with many other artists and musicians whose names she does not want to name.

"Clothing is our first communication tool that sends a message without having to open our mouths, which gives others the possibility of understanding who we are, where we come from, what we want to convey" .

She does not believe in the notion of gender in fashion, believing that "each piece adapts to an energy".

"I'm more in the general energy of flamboyance. Each person can bring something personal to it and I can adapt my work to that person."

Are outfits like this shiny set of bustier, thong and sheer pants that go up like a mid-thigh high stocking really wearable in everyday life?

"What does that mean wearable? A piece of clothing to go out? It's your judgment. I could wear them every day, everyone has a personal relationship to the garment," replies the designer.

© 2021 AFP