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Frankfurt / Main (dpa) - Lockdown, hygiene plans, mask requirement - the corona pandemic has hit the catering industry hard, like many other branches of the economy.
But gourmets can make plans for the "time after".
The Michelin Guide inspectors were also out and about last year and distributed new stars: the new Michelin Guide for Germany presented on Friday lists a total of 310 star restaurants, including 1 new three-star restaurant and 3 new two-stars -Restaurants and 25 new one-star restaurants.
In the previous year, the restaurant guide listed 308 star restaurants.
Among the ten three-star restaurants, the “newcomer” is actually a comeback: the restaurant temporaire - Schwarzwaldstube in Baiersbronn.
Because in January 2020 the parent company of “Traube Tonbach” was destroyed in a fire, including the three-star “Schwarzwaldstube”.
The owner family has created a new temporary home for the restaurant within a very short time, according to the Michelin Guide praise.
Here the kitchen team around Torsten Michel seamlessly ties in with the previous international top level - in a sense risen like a phoenix from the ashes.
"The excellent classic French cuisine focuses on the best products and wonderful contrasts for the all-round tasty dishes."
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He was "relieved," said Michel when he heard about the award.
"Let's look more joyfully into the future."
Even if Michel had already been awarded three stars in the past: "The cards are shuffled every year - and we happily accept the challenge."
Three restaurants managed to rise to the two-star gastronomy of Germany with a second star, in which 41 restaurants are now listed.
This is the Esplanade in Saarbrücken, where Silio Del Fabro cooked a second star with the Mediterranean-inspired classic product cuisine, the Goldberg in Fellbach with the team of Philipp Kovacs and his “in the here and now” kitchen.
They successfully combined the regionality, the seasonal reference and the modern, it was said.
"This is probably the best news in the last twelve months," said Kovacs when he found out about his second star via video link, given the ongoing crisis in the industry.
"It's been a crazy year for all of us."
The Ösch Noir in Donaueschingen, which was only awarded a star last year, was also included in the two-star league.
Chef Manuel Ulrich demonstrates a clear increase in his performance with his modern, classic cuisine, praised the inspectors, who also awarded 25 new restaurants with a Michelin star.
This means that there are a total of 259 restaurants with one star in the new edition of the Guide Michelin for 2021.
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Berlin continues to be the front runner in star gastronomy.
With a total of 25 star restaurants, the German capital has the highest number in the Guide Michelin 2021, including 1 three-star restaurant, 5 two-star restaurants and 19 one-star restaurants.
Away from the metropolises, however, there is a significant accumulation of star restaurants in the southern half of Germany.
Is there not only a “veal sausage equator”, but also a gourmet and star equator?
Since the beginning of the Michelin Guide in the 1960s, it has been observed that a lot is happening in southern Germany in particular, says Ralf Flinkenflügel, the director of the Michelin Guide for Germany and Switzerland.
Baden-Württemberg is close to France, where great importance is attached to good cuisine.
"It is also noticeable that there are many good kitchens in wine-growing regions - those who have an affinity for good wine also want good food."
But testing top gastronomy during a pandemic - is that even possible?
A star menu to go - that would be a strange idea for many gourmets.
"Last year the restaurants felt like they were closed for ages - but it wasn't quite like that," says Flinkenflügel.
The restaurants could have opened for two thirds of the past year.
“Sure, we also had to adjust to it,” he admits.
His team has shown itself to be incredibly flexible and, for example, took the vacation during the lockdown.
"They also got support from international teams from abroad - that helped a lot."
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The pandemic did not mean a standstill for the top restaurants - on the one hand the restaurants were "incredibly well attended", on the other hand, many restaurateurs used the lockdown time for new considerations.
"We had the impression that many restaurateurs were questioning each other, thinking about where we can improve, what can we optimize?"
A significant increase was recognized in many restaurants.
The topic of sustainability is also playing an increasingly important role for many restaurateurs.
In the Guide of 2020, 18 restaurants were awarded a green star - in 2021 there will be 53.
Some people may be wondering how to publish the guide in such a difficult time, says Flinkenflügel.
But it also got calls from many restaurateurs with the tenor: If you don't bring it out yet, we'll be forgotten.
"We were able to rate the restaurants and it will be a positive signal to the industry in 2021", emphasizes Flinkenflügel.
If the restaurants are allowed to receive guests again after the lockdown, the new stars can sparkle all the brighter.
© dpa-infocom, dpa: 210305-99-701978 / 2