Paris (AFP)

Several actresses, Chanel muses, are far from Paris because of the Covid but Hollywood glamor is present in a minimalist parade on the last day of Fashion week.

The CHANEL logo in white hangs over the equally immaculate podium as the Hollywood sign the movie empire in Los Angeles.

Under the glass roofs of the Grand Palais, the traditional venue for Chanel shows, guests are asked to keep their masks, white, even for selfies against the backdrop, which is a must.

The white stools are spaced with letters forming the Chanel name and the interwoven double C logo.

It is necessary to remain seated while waiting for the show and it is forbidden to put the bags on these "barriers" which however lend themselves to it.

The atmosphere is far from the usual effervescence of these meetings but the parade is maintained, although Paris, "in the Covid maximum alert zone", lives its first day with even more draconian restrictions.

- "They make you dream" -

In this context, Virginie Viard, artistic director of Chanel, winks at the actresses "who make us dream so much".

From Gabrielle Chanel to Karl Lagerfeld, who died in February 2019, the house has created memorable looks on screen and in the lives of movie stars like Romy Schneider or Jeanne Moreau.

"I was thinking of the actresses at the time of the + photo call +, on the red carpet, that moment when they are challenged by the photographers (...). And then the fans who wait for them behind the barriers, this very lively side of cinema outside cinema, that's what I like, ”explains Virginie Viard in the parade's intent note.

The scenography has been redesigned so that the mannequins do not cross each other and stay at the right distance from each other.

Some stop in front of the rows of spectators and take poses, like actresses on the red carpet or as was done in the past during the presentation of the collections.

"I wanted it to be very happy, colorful, very lively too", but "without falling into the vintage quote", emphasizes Virginie Viard.

In white and black, Chanel's favorite colors, the outfits are embroidered with sequins, black veils bring a dressy vintage touch.

The bags are tiny that can be worn as clutch bags or as a necklace.

Heeled sandals or moccasins, shoe side, you can choose between glamor or + casual + (casual).

- Curves -

Alongside the unmissable ecru or black tweed skirt suits, the house is increasing the number of suits with Bermuda shorts, neon-hued jeans and T-shirts printed with neon-style CHANEL letters on a more youthful and relaxed note.

Rare thing on the Parisian catwalks, the Dutch Jill Kortleve, who claims her attitude + body positive + and her measurements of "girl next door", far from the usual thinness of the models, parades for the second time for Chanel.

She wears neon pink high-waisted pants with a thin jewel belt, a black brassiere under a transparent cape, revealing her waist and cleavage.

The model, who mixes Dutch, Surinamese, Indonesian and Indian origins, embodies, according to Vogue "with freshness this new guard of super healthy curvy models".

With shapes and super healthy.

"Good news, the movement has propelled itself to Paris," notes the magazine.

Paris, however, more reluctant than the Anglo-Saxon world to highlight the round models - hated by Lagerfeld - where Jill Kortleve had already paraded for Alexander McQueen or Mugler.

© 2020 AFP