Paris (AFP)

Kenzo resists the world "which goes astray" in beekeeper attire, Gauchere resonates the power of his tailors with a drum, Hermès offers second skin jewelry: fashion in Paris is trying to reassure vulnerable consumers in the face of an unprecedented crisis .

In a poetic parade on the alleys of a garden around a fountain whose runoff soothes, the Portuguese designer of the house Kenzo, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, plays optimism with a palette of fresh colors and floral prints on clothes which sometimes cover completely, sometimes lay bare.

The flagship look of this collection revisits the beekeeper's outfit with a hat and a veil, an "echo of the fragility and the distance imposed and necessary today", underlines the designer in the note of intent of the show.

The few guests are spaced out, seated under black umbrellas.

Less than half of the 84 houses on the official Fashion week calendar organized parades, the others opting as this summer for digital presentations, in the midst of the Covid epidemic.

They find on their seats a pot of honey and a scarf made to be put on the surgical mask, now compulsory everywhere, just to make it "fashion" and more joyful.

The abstract red and green prints on white are washed out, as do the poppies and hydrangeas, on the outfits.

"The world is grieved as are the flowers that are too delicate on the prints", underlines Felipe Oliveira Baptista who made this parade "an ode to bees", "protective and reassuring".

In contrast to total protection, another tight-fitting look with a flesh-colored body encourages you to feel uncovered and "dare in the face of danger".

Even in times of pandemic, Kenzo wants to stay true to his DNA, synonymous with the party.

Electric blue, yellow, red, ribbons on jeans invite relaxation like flat sandals and bucket bags that extend at the bottom with floral fabric containers matching the outfits.

- "Decompression" -

German designer Marie-Christine Statz, founder of the Parisian brand Gauchere, invited artist John James to play the drum, transforming his parade into a "decompression ceremony" to allow diners to better focus on the experience. .

"In these unusual times, looking at one thing at a time, listening to one sound at a time and letting an experience resonate" is the designer's flagship inspiration, according to a note of intent from a runway organized in a white space.

In her collection dressing the powerful modern woman, she gives pride of place to the monochrome pantsuit and the fitted silhouette with wide shoulders for jackets and dresses.

This season, she adds softer shades of brick, earth, stone blue or khaki to white and black, and creates additional volumes.

- "Take care of yourself" -

"Sensitive lines": the French luxury house Hermès, which parades on Saturday, presented on Wednesday a collection of high jewelry designed by Pierre Hardy, flexible and light shapes that hug the body.

"I started with what happens between the body and the jewel, how the jewel can come back to meet the body or take care of it," the designer told AFP.

The collection was presented in a dark room, which was lightly lit during the screening of the film featuring women adorned with these jewels, in simple clothes and by the sea.

Graphic or fluid like a necklace or a bracelet in gold and diamonds, these pieces are "manifestations in stones and gold" of emotions or gestures and blend with the skin.

“Traditionally, the jewel was something made for others, a marker, a hierarchical sign of power. Today, we are very far from that. Women have a very personal relationship with jewelry, hence the shapes that marry ", underlines the creator.

© 2020 AFP