REBECA YANKE
@RebecaYanke
Madrid
Saturday, 8 August 2020 - 02:08
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- Gastronomy. Empanadas, empanadillas and other crunchy delicacies beyond Móstoles
- Lockdown. This is the best way to teach your children to cook during confinement
It was not easy to buy, only one person per family had to go out, at least presumably. Home deliveries collapsed and there was not everything in supermarkets either. Restaurants closed and also any bar. There was no choice, we had to cook, sometimes with anything. We laughed because we ran out of toilet paper - we needed to laugh at something back in March - but, in a few days, it was also difficult to find a product that, normally, is always there, like yeast. Touch forbidden, we began to make bread.
"We mold because we need it", explained at that time the Italian writer Fabrizio Andreella , when Spain started the state of alarm and in Italy the flour was already running out. "We have realized what we had forgotten, that human beings need to feel to enjoy reality. That is why we knead bread."
One scenario, that of confinement, in which food "symbolized our need to touch, to make things tangible." Flour was running out because nobody thought of buying industrial pastries in those days; there was time and it had to be taken advantage of.
No more baths, ramen, poke, Thai food and even pizzas. Reality forced us to go back to the origins, to remember grandmother's dishes, try to reproduce those croquettes, experience the experience of memory through the fire and the senses, which have been so altered in recent months. The rise of normal cuisine, even old , has been with us since March, forming part of a larger phenomenon: one that tries not to lose the gastronomic culture as the generation of our elders disappears.
For example, the book Pasta grannies has just been published , which collects the recipes of Italian grandmothers, while many cooks in the world try to recover gastronomies in danger of extinction, such as Palestinian or Kurdish. The most watched program on the Cooking Channel in Spain is precisely Traditional Stoves . Looks like we needed this return to fire.
In this trip, the anonymous chefs have been revealed as essential, although not so much, that populate social networks, especially Instagram. They encouraged cooking as much as the professionals. Normal people who cook normal and also count it normally. Nothing influencers of the fooding , no toppings , nor any obsession with healthy food ; Maybe rice with lobster one day, but other omelet and salad . And the mouth is watering with photographs that do not seek to impact and, nevertheless, they do.
"The current society did not allow being near the kitchen, and some dishes became lethargic," contextualizes Juan Pozuelo , chef of the Kitchen Channel who has spent the confinement proposing dishes with a cook who is not professional but is very followed on Instagram, Darío Escudero, better known for @gijjonudo (47,500 followers). You can imagine where it is from. They did several live shows together, each one from their confinement, united by their culinary passion. They actually met during a fabada route, years ago.
Pozuelo says that the "lethargy in the kitchen of mothers and grandmothers" is due to a "wrong idea of time." The classic: "I love to cook, but I don't have time, if I had ...". " We think that it is time in the kitchen when, in reality, it is time near the kitchen, which is not the same . What's more, those slow cookers, pot, to the love of the fire, where the stews, the stews, the Stews were cooked for hours, they made it possible to carry out the rest of the household chores, the garden or whatever. Other dishes are made in half an hour but require full attention, "Pozuelo argues.
For Luis Mokoroa , president of the Basque Gastronomy Guild of San Sebastián , time was also the spur of the phenomenon; how we had more, we cooked more. One of the anecdotes of this cook who presented a program on traditional Basque cuisine explains the issue at hand: "As a result of the program, I had contact with an elderly woman whose family had a bar in the old part of Donosti with a very famous dish : the cod meatballs. Well, the woman wanted to pass on the recipe to me so that it wouldn't get lost and, precisely during confinement, we made it. "
Almost all the Spanish did something similar. "Families, those who live alone, with whom they will have to live in confinement ...". This is what Mandi Ciriza , director of the Kitchen Channel since its foundation 15 years ago, believes , who explains that, "after two weeks, there was an evident increase in consumption" of this thematic channel. "I saw it logical, if we do not cook it is because we are going like crazy, but we were at home, worried, we could not go to restaurants .. Also the kitchen has something therapeutic, not only for those of us who have always loved it," he argues. "We would leave the news program, and the sadness, and we would start cooking with the children, 'come on, let's have a good time', and on top of that we would eat delicious".
Ciriza says that one of the channel's flagship programs, I'm going to eat the world , had to rethink due to the confinement and its host , Verónica Zumalacárregui , asked the hosts who have been welcoming her around the five continents for videos. They discovered that the bread thing had happened all over the world; the return to "the primary, to the basics, to the flour, to working with the hands . In all the countries the yeast and the flour had run out. Kneading also has a therapeutic power", says Ciriza.
Another benefit of this return to the ancestral is the one highlighted by Pozuelo: "The more you cook, the more you control your diet." And the more you eat at home and as a family, "the easier it is to eat a healthy diet, because a risk in our advanced societies is digestive disorders, from obesity to cholesterol or sugars." "The great positive consequence of the kitchen boom at the moment is having control over what we eat every day and, thus, making it healthier", inspires Pozuelo.
Everything seems to fit in because in September, Cocina cocina cocina real (Paidós) is published , a book by nutritionist Carlos Ríos , with the collaboration of David Gilbert , where the author recalls "the happiness he felt with grandmother's croquettes" and whose words confirm the from Pozuelo: "Cooking empowers you, allows you to be in control. Ultra-processed foods are not cooked or born naturally in the top of a tree, but are produced artificially, with unhealthy ingredients and inside a factory. When you cook, you are the owner of your food. You decide what will reach the plate, your stomach and, consequently, how it will affect your health, for better or for worse. "
Along these lines, a study by the Florette salad brand prepared after confinement revealed that "26% of Spaniards increased their consumption of healthy foods and 98% said they wanted to keep the habit in the new normal." According to the marketing director of the firm, Núria Alias , "the healthy trend existed and it has been accentuated during the quarantine because these months have made us consider how we eat and value a balanced diet more than ever".
Another positive consequence was "the increase in local cuisine", such as that defended by Gijonudo on his social networks. By profession a bricklayer and a wonderful cook - Juan Pozuelo says it - lately "he gives a lot of cane to bonito": "Bonito with tomato, salad with bonito, pickled bonito, marmitako, bonito rolls, bonito with garlic, bonito with ratatouille. And I still have to blunt, as soon as the price goes down, which will be at 4.95, I will make jars and publish it on my instagram, "he says.
Gijonudo, who spent more than six hours a day cooking on Instagram during confinement, tries to convey that "you can make delicious food without spending a lot of money", as well as defend "the kitchen of use." "Nothing is thrown away in this house"; He explains, "If I make tomato sauce, it is not for one dish but for several days."
The same applies to her friend, the Barcelona-born Paquita Ligero (35,000 followers), who began to post on the social network what she prepared for her family at the suggestion of her daughters. Now there is a legion of followers who adore Paquita and her tricks, for example her combination of garlic and ginger, which she keeps in the fridge and is used to start stir-fries. "I didn't cook until I was 19 years old, but I saw my grandmother do it all my life With little, he made a delicious meal, full of flavor and making the most of what he had, "he recalls.
She started cooking "for real" 11 years ago, when she was fired from her job at a textile company, and so was her husband. They met working. "The princess", her granddaughter, usually comes to Paquita's house to eat, and on holidays she makes empanada meat, green peppers, French fries and salad. Paquita cannot conceive a salad without her spring onion. Chives, not onion.
That would be the way to go, according to chef Sergio Fernández . He had a program where he went to the market, asked people for recipes and then reproduced them. "We must ensure generational transmission, have a notebook and that on Saturday the oldest person in the family makes a plate for others to learn." This is happening because "the Covid-19 put families in the kitchen," reflects Rafuel (444,000 followers), who through his Instagram ended up "preparing content for restaurants during confinement" and is famous for his rice and pasta . "People want to see what is cooked at home, not what Pepito does in his restaurant, because seeing it is good but it is difficult to do, there are many instruments that we do not have at home."
"#Cocinareal, he usually puts Paquita on his social network. He says it even in his biography:" What you see is what there is. "
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