How to get a better overview of the south of France than by browsing the Canal du Midi? In 241 km, from the discreet charm of Toulouse to the azure blue of the Thau lagoon, between Marseillan and Sète, visitors can combine the sweetness of a river stroll with the pleasure of discovering extremely different landscapes. That's what Jean-Bernard Carillet, author at Lonely Planet and columnist for the show Et si on partait? on Europe 1, invites you to discover.
Barge and bikes, perfect combo
The ideal way to discover the Canal du Midi, a hotspot for river tourism in France, is the barge. There are a lot of foreigners who only come from elsewhere for that. The rental of barges does not require a license and the handling does not take more than 45 minutes.
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The interior is very well laid out, it looks like an upgraded motorhome on the water. There is a very reassuring bubble side. We let ourselves slide over the water at 6 km / h on average: it goes a little faster than on foot and slower than on a bicycle. We exchange with other boaters, sailors, fishermen ... The atmosphere is friendly, with an air of dolce vita .
You can do this from several boat rental bases, including Carcassonne, for a flexible period. The ideal is to do it for a week, by scheduling excursions to visit the castles, the villages, the vineyards… There are bicycles on board and this costs from 1,300 euros per week for a boat of 4 people.
There is another cheaper option: the bicycle. The towpaths along the canal have been fitted out for this means of transport, there are cycle routes and the possibility of renting bicycles, including electrically assisted bicycles (VAE).
Carcassonne and its beautiful Medieval City
In Carcassonne, the old fortified town dominates the Aude plain and looks like a castle from our childhood. As soon as he walks through the stone gate, the visitor has the impression that he is going to cross a knight with his armor, even if it has become very touristy. To escape the crowds, there is no miracle. You have to go early in the morning or in the late afternoon, when the flow of tourists has dried up.
The most beautiful locks in France?
In terms of works of art, the most striking building of the route could well be the locks of Fonsérane, near Béziers. It is a very spectacular architectural feat. It is actually a succession of nine locks over approximately 300 m. It looks like a water staircase because there is a big drop of 21 m. To witness the passage of the locks by the boats is in itself a spectacle: we see the water gushing and bubbling, it is impressive and refreshing. At night, it's magnificent, with colorful play of light.
Toulouse, space version
In Toulouse, there are of course many museums to discover and a magnificent heritage to admire. But, in the capital of aeronautics and the cradle of aviation, there is an unmissable visit: the Cité de l'Espace, dedicated to the space adventure, the city's true DNA. It is a thematic park of five hectares with, outside, a prototype of the Sputnik satellite and a life-size model (53 m high) of the Ariane 5 rocket. You can also see a Soyuz capsule and even a module. from the Mir orbital station, which one can enter.
Inside, there is a real moon stone, brought back during the Apollo 15 mission. There is even a simulator that reproduces the sensation of a lunar walk: you put on a harness, attached to a rubber band, which makes that you feel six times lighter, as if you were on the moon. The ground reconstitutes that of the Moon and the illusion is total.
A nugget: the ancient Cathar city of Minerve
There is also a nugget not to be missed along the route: the ancient Cathar city of Minerve, accessible in an hour by bike from the Canal du Midi. It is a magnificent location on a rocky outcrop overlooking two valleys. It feels like on a peninsula or on a drifting stone ship, suspended between heaven and earth. There are cobblestone streets, old houses and art galleries. There is even a stone staircase leading down into the valley. The local wine, the Minervois, is a wine of character.
An astonishing in-between on the threshold of Naurouze
Let's finish with a somewhat strange passage along the canal: the threshold of Naurouze, which is the highest point of the Canal du Midi, at an altitude of 190 m. It marks the dividing line between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, in the Lauragais. Concretely, the rainwater that falls on the west side will flow into the Atlantic and the water that falls on the east side of this demarcation will flow into the Mediterranean.